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A wooden boat, which an enthusiast was converting to paddle wheel drive. He arrived with the beautifully built stern paddle wheel and then floated the boat on to an improvised trailer built from a caravan chassis. The first attempt ended in near disaster as his little Citroen van disappeared in clouds of smoke from the clutch as it refused to pull trailer and boat out of the water. Here we are with a rope attached to our empty trailer ready to heave the Heath Robinson outfit ashore.

Sadly we did not discover until next morning that since we were last here a rather nice looking restaurant has opened just 100M from the gate.

Sun 7 May.
After a walk around the village took the Toyota and Trailer to the same farm where we had stored it five years ago. We had seen the memorial stone in the marina and talked to others in the village, so knew that sadly M. Campodarve had died 4 years ago. However his son now runs the farm along with his own farm and Mme. Campodarve and Grandad still live at the old farm. Grandad is now 85, fit and well.
Mme. welcomed us and remembered us from our last visit. Was only too pleased to accommodate our outfit in the same Tobacco drying shed.
We walked back to the boat, filled with water and just a few minutes before setting off a Gentleman arrived and relieved us of 7 Euros for the mooring - all very official, laboriously written detailed receipt.

Set off at 11.15 and arrived at Meilhan just in time to race up the hill to the Boulangerie. Arrive just before they closed at 12.30

There is a good slipway at Meilhan and water available on mooring.

Very little traffic on the canal. The fairway is getting a little weedy in places, but not sufficiently to cause any problem. Banks are well maintained, new piling has been completed where necessary. A long stretch of the towpath (at least 40Km.) has been resurfaced with small gravel, later stretch tarred and rolled to give a hard durable surface, unfortunately excellent for cycling.

Speed limit on this canal 8Km/hr. Used GPS to establish engine revs, at this speed in this size of canal we were normally making minimal disturbance at bank side.
Here at it’s Western end the canal is raised above the land between canal and river. This is very fertile flood plain growing vegetables, fruit and usual maize.
Canal is edged by mature Plane trees, in full leaf now.

Locks are all fully power operated. A pole hangs over the canal about 100M from the lock. Twist the pole and the sequence starts. Once in the lock pull the small lever outside the control cabin and gates close and Lock fills (or empties) when full (or empty) pull lever again to open gates and leave. NB. Leave without delay. The gates close after three minutes unless a boat is waiting to come in from opposite direction and has actuated the twist pole.
There is an Eclusier lurking somewhere in the background ready to sort out problems. We met one lady, responsible for four locks. We were her first boat today.

Once again did not like the horrid moorings at Mas D’Agenais and went on to Lagruere. A Halte Nautique, but all locked up and empty. An abandoned air. Water not on. Jetties in poor condition.

No TV here. A large avenue of Plane Trees in line of sight.
Today 31Km and 5 locks. Some rain today, enough to get the waterproofs out at one stage. Quite cold, pleased to put the heating on in the evening.

Mon 8 May.
V.E. Day. Public Holiday but locks open as normal.
Returned two Km. To Mas D’Agenais. Purchased diesel at the Crown Blue Line base.
68 L @ 1.4 Euro per Litre - a rather excessive price. Diesel in nearby garages selling at 1.18 and 1.17. However CBL Staff were very helpful, quickly made space for us at the pump. No complaint, I was happy to pay their price for the convenience of not having to trundle twice into town with my little trolley.

Moved across to the Halte Nautique and found no water available. Don’t know why I did not fill up at CBL.

Walked around town and did necessary shopping. All the usual shops available only a short walk from the canal. Small veg and general groceries, two bakers, butcher.

Heavy thunderstorm late yesterday evening, further rain through the night and a heavy storm this morning. Boat covered with twigs and fluffy seedpods.
Showers through the day, some heavy.

Continuing along the canal the large number of irrigation suction pipes are very noticeable. Every few hundred metres. One has to wonder if in summer this amount of extraction is sustainable.

At the first lock after Mas D’Agenais, Ecluse La Gaulette, the top gates failed to operate. We called the Eclusier on the intercom and he arrived in ten minutes, poked about at the hydraulics, and order soon restored.

Stayed overnight at the Halte Nautique at Buzet sur Baise. We used the same jetty as five years ago, a steel structure with grating deck, set a little away from the main quay. No water on this jetty and taps on main quay not working.
Between moorings and the road bridge to town bank work is being carried out. Using large rocks, trucked in, to build up bank and construct a towpath.
In town a Vide Grenuire (Empty attic - a sort of car boot/jumble sale) was taking place. Caught in another downpour we squeezed into a bar along with more others than possible and waited out the rain.
Found the one Restaurant closed on Mondays.
A small Brasserie near the canal closed indefinitely.

Walked to the Hire Base. An excellent slipway here, used by “Bobbles” and the nearby staircase lock leading from Canal down to the River Baise. Talked to the Eclusier and got all information about the Baise and the Garonne crossing.

Sat. dish still working here.

Tues 9 May.
Moved the short distance to the Hire Base where we took water. 2 Euros.
Then a couple of hundred Metres to the top of the staircase lock down on to the River Baise. (2 Chambers)
The Lock keeper passed us the electronic card, complete with lanyard and huge cork float, which we needed to operate the River Baise Locks.

Upstream passing under the aqueduct carrying the Canal Lateral a la Garonne and soon afterwards under the A62 Autoroute.
A lonely, tree lined river. No views, no people.
Speed limit on this river 6Km per hour.
Ten Km to the first lock at Vianne..
Locks are all in very good condition. Stone built and fully automatic. Long easy stone built approach quays, but some rather fierce in operation.
There is a good wooden quay at Vianne with ample space, a short walk from the town.
This is a remarkably preserved Bastide town. One of the series of fortified towns built by King Edward 1st. of England in the thirteenth century. The four gates and most of the walls are still intact.
All the necessary shops and a few Restaurants. Rather obviously touristy, prices a bit high and service rather indifferent. Also a large English influx.

1. Laverdac
2. nerac.

Nerac is a moderate sized town with a shopping centre mostly concentrated on one main street. Very good Boulangerie/Salon de tea. The town lies between the river and the busy through road. Cross this road and a few steps to a Supermarket. (Champion)
Moorings on stone quays both sides of the river. A charge is made. Someone will come around and collect the fee. Also deposit required for the special push on connector needed to use the water taps.

Yesterday (or last night rather) was the end of the town annual festival. Clearing up operations still going on and all Restaurants closed today - exhausted, except one strange little place on the waterfront of Petite Nerac. Very nice, but selling only Tartines and homemade ice cream.

Wed 10 May.
Peggy and Rupert walked on ahead while I filled with water and did a few jobs around the engine. A nice walk, 2Km through tree filled “Parc de la Garenne” bordering the river. Unfortunately at the next lock, Ecluse Nazereth there is no way of getting from the right bank across the weir to the lock island. Very few places on this river where it is possible to bring a boat alongside the bank. Fortunately she was carrying a “Walkie talkie” and we managed to meet up at a bank side spot where she was able to scramble aboard.
Just above this lock got an official Whistling At, from a yellow jacketed gentleman who thought I was exceeding the 6Km?hr speed limit. Perhaps I was. Paid more attention afterwards.

Today the air was filled with “Fluff” from poplar trees. At times the surface of the river completely covered.

1. Cotton covered river.
2. Narrow lock cut above condom.

Another hot sunny day.
Locks are boater operated using card. Very rapid filling. Each with 2.5 to 3M rise.
Just a few hire boats moving today and one private British Motor Cruiser.

Stopped at Moncrabeau. A small mooring, two hire boats already tied up, the remaining space was under the bridge and muddy, so moved on.

After Ecluse de Condom, entrance to the town is very off-putting. A traveller’s camp on one side, scruffy industrial area on the other. Moorings are unattractive, close to traffic, quay used for parking.
Moved on again about half Km and tied up to trees alongside a wonderful park. Grass all mown, neat and tidy right to the rivers edge. Huge recreation area. A few walkers, couple of fishermen. Ideal mooring for the dog.

Thur 11th May.
In the upper reaches the river narrows considerably, and is closed in by trees and undergrowth, particularly the lock cuts.Ecluse Graziac, last but one before Valence is a double staircase. Eclusier in attendance. The last lock Flaran has a 3.3M rise.

Arrived at the head of navigation at Valence sur Baise at 12.30 and were most surprised to find no other boats. No other boats arrived in the time we were there. I think perhaps a lot of hire boats do not make it this far in their week. Also I believe deeper drafted barges cannot cruise above Condom.
The Halte Nautique is in a lovely setting. A long stone quay with space for possibly nine boats and in process of being extended at the upstream end.
Capitanerie not open and no payment requested. Water taps available.
A bar/restaurant in a kiosk with tented pavilion extensions on the edge of the Halte Nautique provided a good lunch. Used by locals and workmen as well as boaters.

A few hundred metres from the moorings is a wonderful Arboretum planted on a steep bank with paths and seats. A great facility for a small town to produce and support. This is an interesting Bastide Town centered around a square with colonnades on each side. Shops and bars deeply set under the shady stone arches. Ancient ramparts pretty well surround the town, affording views of the surrounding countryside.

Unfortunately another town in sleepy decline with many buildings closed up and deteriorating. Considerable English presence. Interesting to speculate how much further the town would have shrunk without the influx of the English.

Fri. 12 May.
Wet this morning. Walked in the rain up the hill to the boulangerie in Valence for the breakfast croissants.
A wet run downriver to Condom. The double lock staffed by two men today, but still no boats until arrival at Condom.
The town is preparing for three-day festival of jazz, starting tonight. Traffic excluded from central area - except beer delivery lorries. Shop fronts boarded up, grand stands positioned in several squares, bar tents and beer pumps in profusion. Fun fair and amusements on edge of town.
Walked around for a while. Under normal circumstances this would be a rather pleasant old town. Found one Boulangerie/Salon de tea open.

Weather turned pleasant, carried on downriver to Moncrabeau. No other boat on mooring today so we had our choice of position.
Notice that haymaking has started - earlier than home as one would expect.
River banks are unprotected or built up, held together by tree roots.
There is no continuous path alongside river so opportunities for walking are limited.

The village of Moncrabeau is not visible from the moorings but lies only a short walk up a steep hill. A compact, well kept village. Shaded boules court, square, little garden and a couple of nice outlooks over Ramparts. There is a Boulangerie, but closed - gone on holiday, please get your bread from the Hairdresser. A hotel (Logis de France) with Restaurant.

Moncrabeau is known as The Village of Liars.
Fixed to the wall at a viewpoint overlooking the river is a descriptive placard which tells us that from here, when the weather is clear can be seen two of the peaks of the Pyrenees. When the weather is exceptionally clear Gibraltar can be seen … etc.

The next placard outside the Marie commemorates the visit of Queen Elizabeth of England in 1992 and the mayor’s correspondence with her, since due to reasons of economy, he could only offer The Queen Prune Juice to drink.
There are various other placards on a trail around the village. I recall the story of the prized red fish in this part of the river brought by migrating ducks from Siberia!

Sat 13th May.
Heavy thunderstorm at 7am. Some wet on the run down to Nerac.
Moored in the same position but this time could not get Satellite TV. to watch the Cup Final - very important, West Ham playing.
Succeeded later and watched news and a film.
We find that days on the boat are so busy that we watch very little TV, mostly like to get the early evening news. Also all the open air is very exhausting, so that we usually collapse into bed quite early. This is also due to Rupert’s insistence in having us awake at six each morning.
This holiday we had taken a small CD player and stock of films - watched not a single one.