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River Lot. (Lower Connected Section.)

May 2006-07-11
Monday 15 May.
Left the Halte Nautique at Buzet in time to take water at Aquataine Cruisers Hire base and then move on to the lock entrance at our appointed time of 9am.
Prompt at 9 the Eclusier opened the top gate and in we go.
We were re issued with an electronic card, the same cards which are used on The Baise also operate the locks on the lower Lot. Eclusier telephoned the Garonne Pilots at Saint Leger Lock to inform them that we were on the way.
This time after leaving the staircase lock we continued downstream and within half a Km. Entered Buzet Lock. Close beside the lock stands an extremely ugly Cellulose factory, now even more unsightly in its derelict state.
Fast run down the featureless last 5Km of the Baise and tied up at the waiting jetty for St Leger Lock. Invited to the nearby office for “Processing” Paid fee of 16Euros, details taken.
Nicole on the far bank is 5Km downstream of St Leger, so each crossing also involves a run down (or up) the Garonne, with a very fast current to contend with.
I declared our maximum speed as 9Km/Hr.After much discussion amongst Senior Pilot and various others it was decided that we should proceed independently. i.e. Follow the Pilot Boat.
Now followed an extremely exciting 20 minutes.
As we came out of the lock on to The Garonne, past the large tug boat, with seating for 24 on deck, which is used to accompany larger boats, a small open boat with two men on board was waiting ahead of us. Shaped like a RIB but in fact of solid construction with pusher fixtures on the bow and two 50HP Honda Outboard motors.
Off he went and we followed at our best speed.
Buoyed channel, narrow at times, winding around, with water racing over semi submerged rocks in places. Strong cross currents and whirly places needed full power and anticipation to avoid being swept down on to buoys. When passing buoys the current could be seen absolutely zipping along. When I had chance to look my GPS showed us to be doing a speed of 14.5 Km/Hr.
Travelled the 5Km downstream in 20Minutes - not bad for a 23ft Sea Otter.
We had been briefed before setting off and carefully avoided the big whirlpool at the entrance to Nicole Lock which was operated remotely by the crew of the pilot boat, and so passed again on to the River Lot.

What Value for 16 Euros!!

Aiguillon is a strange town. Clean and tidy with well kept squares and avenues, but an air of “run down”. Many shops closed down.
Large North African population and several specialist grocers and Cafes. Possibly labour required by the surrounding area where there is much intensive growing of fruit and veg.
A hot sunny day. After lunch, on upriver 7Km to Clairac. Very wide featureless river. After Clairac Lock through the bridge, full turn and back through the next arch to the moorings on right bank.
Good stone jetty with various levels - the water level is liable to fluctuation here due to Hydro Electricity generation at Aiguillon.
Monday so all shops in town closed, but a SHOPPI Supermarket across the bridge within a few hundred M was open.
A couple of “Chambre d’hote” boats arrived, one a large cabin cruiser and the other a barge, seemed to be travelling in company. No guests. We saw them again several times over the next few days.

Tues 16th May.
Thunderstorm at 7am but not much rain.
A few maintenance jobs this morning while Peggy took Rupert for a walk and did some shopping. Rupert is feeling the heat and not very keen on walks at the moment, although he runs around happily on his own.

Left about 11am. Continued on upstream.
Near PK17 a nice jetty with a board announcing “Prune Museum”
A nice place, plum orchards, picnic areas - the museum and shop was just closing -Lunch 12 to 2. Just time to buy a pretty painted wooden tray - did we really need that? Yes, evidently we did, it comes in useful to keep all my odds and ends together.
Two more KM. To the jetty for Granges sur Lot. A nothing village. No interest, fast road passes through, walking unpleasant. One shop, closed for lunch - but we stayed on the jetty to take our lunch.

Just before Castelmoron sur Lot a narrow buoyed channel, fast flowing water, as the river passes over an old submerged dyke.
Stopped on the quay at Castelmoron. Took water and a walk around town.
One Km upstream from Castelmoron Bridge is the first of the new high-rise locks, built to bypass the Hydro Electricity plan which had been installed during the river’s non-navigable period. A single chamber 10M Rise. Length 32.5M and width 5.25M. This lock is operated by a Lock Keeper.
Boat crews are not allowed ashore in the region of the lock.
We were alone in the chamber feeling very small as the guillotine gate came down behind us. We put our centre rope around one of the well placed floating bollards and held position by running engine ahead at half power. The lock fills rapidly but from several under floor inlets, so without too much disturbance.

Overnight stop at Sainte Livrade sue Lot. Mooring pontoon near a wooded park area. Lots of broken glass around pontoon side areas. Looks like a meeting place for bored youth.
This is a large town with all facilities, including a filling station. Large immigrant population.
After return to the boat we moved 200m upriver to the rowing club pontoon. Tucked ourselves away on the end out of the way and no one queried our presence. Felt much safer there
(Later in the week we met South Africans from a hire boat, who had been at the Saturday Market in Sainte Livrade. One lady’s handbag had been stolen, the shoulder strap cut. This is unheard of in rural France.)

Wed. 17 May.
Walked into town with three cans strapped to my little trolley and purchased 30 Litres of Diesel at the filling station. Left the loaded trolley while we continued for other shopping and our morning coffee. Very much North African influence, people and shops.
Six Km upstream at Campagnac there is a good pontoon mooring, well shaded by a variety of trees.
The nearby Hamlet of Campagnac is more or less one farm. Sign boards led us on a 15 minute walk to “Ferme de Gourmand” We arrived at 12 noon just in time to be told “We are closed” A nice walk anyway.
Tried to take water from the tap on the quayside which was the press and hold type. I had a suitable hose connection but the pressure was so low that only a dribble emerged from the end of the hose. Gave up.

After Lunch moved on to Villeneuve sur Lot. Water tap on the quay is also press and hold type, but a good pressure so we were able to top up our tank.

Walked around town, we had stayed in a Hotel here for two nights about three years ago, so half remembered many of the features. Interesting town, mix of architecture all jumbled together. Colonnaded square. A huge Church most unusually built in brick. Once again a large North African presence.

I tried to take photographs inside the lock chamber but found it impossible with my camera to convey any impression of being inside a 13M-rise chamber.

On upriver to Saint Sylvestre/Penne d’Agenais.
On the left bank Babou Marine hire base and visitors moorings. On the right bank lovely pontoon moorings, close to a caravan park and Boules court, with signs saying Private - No Admittance. Naturally we moored here.
Only 100 M away an Intermarche and all shops, yet peaceful and quiet mooring.

Thursday 18 May.
Shopping at the nearby Intermarche, very handy to be able to wheel heavy stuff back to boat in trolley. Also two cans of diesel at 1.10 Euro per Litre.
Walked across the bridge. The small village near the bridge is actually Pont de Penne. The medieval village of Penne d’Agenais is at the top of a hill, 2Km walk from the river. Not a very nice walk, quite a lot of traffic, narrow roads with no pavement for much of the way. (Just in case you are not reading this in UK. Pavement in English = Sidewalk or Footpath)
Once in the old village narrow lanes and steep cobbled paths lead to The Basilica on top of the hill. Should be good views from here, but mostly obscured by vegetation, trees and overgrown bushes.
Sat out a rainstorm in a café. No one else around at 11.30 in the morning but the waiter appeared to be preparing for a large number of customers for lunch.
Very quick walk back down the hill, again just escaping the rain.

On upstream 8.5 Km to Lustrac. Here is the much photographed picturesque mill with lock beside. However much to our surprise we found that the lock is weired. This is the end of Navigation.
Edwards May shows three more working locks and 10Km further navigable.
The Tourist Board information boards , new colourful features sited at every wharf and public place, show 5 locks and 16Km.
We were told later that Lustrac Lock will be open in 2007, but there is no sign of any work.
Although picturesque from the river there is disappointingly little to see walking near the mill. The adjoining area is a private residence, sealed off by a high fence.

Running downstream there are several places where the river is very fast flowing in way of old submerged weirs. Important to pay good attention to the red and green buoys.
Stopped overnight at Campagnac, the pontoon we had used yesterday lunchtime. Electricity available, free, water tap press type too slow to be useable to fill boat tank.

Friday 19 May.
A complete change in the weather. Cold and some showers.
Continued downstream to Casseneuil. Good moorings on Two small wooden quays with water and electricity.
Worth a stop. Usual shops with a small Casino Mini market.
Main town spoilt by Roads.
At the confluence of two rivers is the old part of town (Medieval) which is being restored. I noticed a very good standard of building. Good insulation being fitted to all the old walls. Full internal steel frames taking all the weight of new structure while leaving old walls and beams in position. This set me wondering, I have often been dubious about some Medieval Towns, what exactly does medieval mean. So I looked it up.
According to the Oxford English Dictionary, Medieval or Mediaeval - Of, imitating the Middle Ages.
So, by definition, a medieval village may be genuinely old, but it is still correctly described as Medieval if it merely appears to be old.
Well that will make me think next time I am exploring a French Tourist hot spot.

Past Saint Livrade and on to Fongrave where we stopped for lunch. Good mooring with water and electricity. Picnic area with tables. Did not visit village.

Just 1.5Km further on stopped at Temple sur Lot. Moored close to the big training facility for French national Canoe/Kayak/Rowing.
Nothing to see of The Templars.
Visited the Water Lily Nursery (Fee to enter) which has been long established on this site. Supplied Water Lilies to Monet for his garden at Giverny. We were surprised to find the gardens open from 9 to 6 without break for lunch, until we found that the Owner is now an English Company!

Through Castelmoron 10M Lock and on a further 12Km to Clairac for the night. This time only us and the trip boat on the quay.
Busy day today. We have seen three other boats moving.

Sat 20th May.
Downstream to Aiguillon where we moored. Walk to town and then lunch before moving down the 2Km lock cut to Ecluse Nicole. Arrived on the waiting berth at 2pm and used the intercom link at the lockside to call the pilot station the other side of The Garonne at St. Leger. After 30 Minutes the pilot boat arrived with two men on board. This boat has two 50HP Outboard Engines and is built with a pusher bow. However after inspection of our stern and some discussion it was decided that we would not accommodate the pusher’s bow. The stern of High Jump is probably to narrow and also the simple rudder fully protruding aft from the stern could be fouled. We would therefore be towed upstream.
We exited the lock and turned up The Garonne. The pusher came alongside and hooked his tow rope around our forward cleat, not a simple task since I had to maintain full engine speed to counter the river current.
Using a short towrope, full power on tug and our engine and off we went.
Intense concentration and effort on the tiller to keep us steady following just to the side of the tug to avoid his engines wake.
GPS showed speed over the ground of 8 to 10 Km per hr. So I reckon we were passing through the water at about 15Km. Per hour. Pretty exciting stuff on a 23ft Canal Boat hull shaped like a bath tub.