Untitled Page

Canal Lateral a la Garonne and Canal du Midi.

Sunday 21st May. 2006.
Today we start on stage Four of our Holiday Cruise, but first a walk to Buzet sur Baise for bread.
On this occasion, having paid a mooring fee for the first time here at Buzet, we found the proprietor of the Halte Nautique and obtained the key to the water tap, so did not have to stop at Aquetaine Cruisers.
Quite a few Hire Boats setting off from Aquetaine Cruisers this morning.
A hot sunny day. Saw three Terrapins, about 10 inches across, sunning themselves on a branch.

English Yacht Me-and-er going our way. We had met and had a chat at Buzet. Draft of 1.4M, but they were having difficulty in getting alongside moorings.

We stopped for lunch at Serignac sur Garonne, where we had moored five years ago. There is a new quay on the left bank (Village side) with all facilities. This was full with Locoboat Peniches from Agen. However we were happy to moor in the shade in our old spot on the other side, using mooring pins.
Took a walk to the village, which has not changed. There is a useful small supermarket, which was open although we did not need anything.
Having said that the village centre has not changed, there is a development of new houses between village and canal.
This is a very recent phenomenon in rural France. The population are fed up with living in the picturesque slums so beloved by tourists and are moving into new developments of comfortable, convenient, boxes. Preferably paid for by selling the picturesque slum to The English.

It is good to see the amount of maintenance work completed on the canal. The towpath has been excellently made up - for the benefit of cyclists.
Banks have been repaired, in many places for long stretches. A new technique of building bank walls with large rough boulders. Rather bright and stark white while still new, but will tone down and fill with vegetation over the years.
A continuous row of new Poplars has been planted each side. Young, but well staked and strongly established. Not a single one vandalised.
The four locks before Agen, rising up to the Aqueduct, are an Automatic chain. The third lock would not empty and although there was an Eclusier buzzing about in his van he did not seem to be aware that there was a fault so we were delayed for a while.
We later found out that The Yacht Me-and-er had gone aground in the lock entrance when leaving the third lock. After three minutes the top gates closed automatically and squeezed the yacht. Fortunately this was a steel built yacht and apart from a loss of some paint no damage was done.

Moored up at the Locoboat base. At least half a dozen visiting boats moored here Yachts, cruisers and visiting hire boats, however several finger pontoon spaces available. Fairly close to busy roads but we did not find it too noisy and enough room for the dog.
Over the bridge, which crosses the main railway line and about half a mile, walk into the centre of Agen. Found a nice café to sit outside and then a very special patisserie.

Preparing to leave the top lock and cross the Aqueduct to Agen.

Monday 22nd May.
Took advantage of the very good shopping street in the centre of Agen, but first took a walk across town to the suspension bridge which crosses the River Garonne to Le passage. We had intended to walk to the Locks, across the aqueduct and then back along the towpath, but somehow mislaid ourselves and returned by the suspension bridge. I remembered this as a ramshackle old footbridge and was rather surprised by the elegant and well kept structure, which we crossed today. Then we found a plaque, which told us that the old bridge had been demolished and this wonderful new footbridge built just a year after our last visit.

Paid our mooring fee of 8 Euro to Locoboat and left 11.30am.
Since our last trip many new mooring sites have been built. One example is Montalembert. Very nice park site, finger pontoons. We did not stop since we had taken lunch on a bankside mooring about a Km before this.

Several Automatic Locks and then Valence d’Agen where we had intended to spend the night. A big disappointment. Travellers caravans on both sides of the canal, dogs staked out, rubbish everywhere and on the moorings scruffy old boats and one lovely new Dutch Kruiser on the end!

On to Pommevic Newish little quay to accommodate two boats. Water and Electricity. Very shaded under plane trees. A few hundred yards from village.

Halte Nautique at Pommevic.

Tues 23rd May.
Very short of diesel, only 20L left in the tank this morning. Why I am concerned is because I do not know exactly how far from the bottom of the tank the suction pipe ends. I know I shortened the pipe some years ago when we had “Fuel Bug” problems.
One lock and 3Km to Malause. No filling station here despite promises in the guides.
A good quay. The area around is being renovated, park, picnic area, etc. Would be a nice village, has all the shops - but no hope. N113 runs right through the centre. 40 Tonners nose to tail at the roundabout in the centre of the village. A hell of fumes and noise.

Entering Moissac the canal runs in a walled cut along the centre of the street. A swing bridge was closed and unmanned. Lunch time 12 to 1pm. Nominal height 1.8M. We took it very, very slow and carefully. Just squeezed under, about 2 inches clearance.
The visitor moorings are on the quay of France Fluvial. 4Euros per night.
The manager and his wife have just taken over the job, we remembered them from Migennes.
Gas oil pump on quay. Very helpful in arranging to supply and only 1.20Euros per Litre.
The town is on one of the ancient Pilgrim Routes to Santiago de Compostelle.
There are six routes starting in, or passing through France, joining into three to cross the Pyrenees and enter Spain.
This is the Voie du Puy, which also passes through Cahors and Condom.
Now we know why we saw so many long distance walkers in those two towns.
In recent years it has become very popular to recreate the ancient pilgrimage and the town was thronged with walkers of all ages and types, many carrying the shell symbol on their hats or rucksacks. Some very casual, others with all the high tec gear including the two Power Walking Sticks. Even saw a few flimsy trailing wheelbarrow contraptions for carrying rucksack.
Had a long chat to a middle aged French couple who approached us because they had a Cav. Just like Rupert. He had to stay at home and I think they were missing him. They were doing the complete walk in stages of one month per year.

A wonderful Salon de Tea in the square facing the Cathedral. Drink comes with an excellent piece of patisserie. Good place to people watch.

Interesting walk across the canal, past the lock descending to the River Tarn, which is still in operation and on to confluence of Tarn and Garonne.
Strange moment as we bought a new collar for the dog in a small pet shop. A man came in and was handed a huge snake, which was popped into a sack. I did not even notice and Peggy was so horror struck she could not even speak to tell me.

Evening. Pizza at The Bureau. Terrible.
Wed. 24th May. Empire Day.
About a dozen cruisers here overnight. Couple of France Fluvial’s Euro Classic Peniche. Steel built in the North of England, must win the prize for ugliest boat on the canal. Said to be cumbersome and difficult to drive, which was borne out over the next few days as we travelled occasionally in company with one of these boats.

Took a walk along the towpath, past three locks, as far as the Aqueduct Cacor over the River Tarn. Interesting piece of history related on a plaque on the aqueduct wall.
In 1930 the Railway Bridge just upstream was carried away by massive floods. The Chemain de Haulage was widened and railway track laid. For a period, main Line Trains and Peniches ran side by side over the same “Pont Canal.”

Back into town for shopping (and Salon de Tea of course.)
At the moment the centre of town is a mess as major reconstruction is carried out to the car park.

Even in this high profile tourist town there are groups of Arab men hanging about on corners. Walk to the edge of town and groups of Arab children, letting off fireworks, jeering and trying to intimidate.

Hot sunny day. Locks now all power operated by an Eclusier. No delays at all. Closed for Lunch 12.30 to 1.30
Waited a short time yesterday at one lock for a Full Size Peniche coming down. Being full length, too long to transit the Canal du Midi locks. Had been cut in half and then lashed together with wires. Seemed to be solid, despite having a considerable hog.

At Castelsarrasin met “Redquest” which we had last met at Digoin, 20 Oct 2000. This is a steel built barge, a copy of a Northern boat. In 1907 two boats were built to carry coal on the Barnsley Canal. Horse drawn and double ended so that they did not have to wind at each terminus. The owner had built this copy himself, faithfully reproducing the hull form. They have wintered here for the last two years, but in the next few days will start the journey north to be nearer to family.

Pente d’Eau de Montech.

A very nice Halte Nautique at Montech with shops on the main road nearby, but busy today with holiday trippers. We moved on through one more lock to mooring near the small hamlet of Dieupentale.
A very poor mooring, submerged stakes and the edge being concrete blocks with a gap on the inside. However a very nice isolated grassy area, ideal for the dog and since it was now 6.15pm we decided to stay.
As Peggy stepped ashore from the bow, mooring rope in hand, what she thought was solid ground turned out to be just a covering of grass over a gap between concrete blocks and bank. Her leg disappeared heavily into the gap, severely gashing her shin and turning back a flap of skin.
Masses of blood.
I asked a group of elderly local people, enjoying the sun on a nearby seat - Where was the nearest hospital? How to get a taxi? Etc. However one of the ladies used her mobile to telephone the Sapeur/Pompiers.
Within ten minutes a large red ambulance arrived, blue lights flashing and siren on, manned by two men and two women. All four clambered on to our miniscule aft deck and despite her protestations insisted on carrying Peggy ashore to their “Vehicle for the assistance of Victims”. She was laid on the stretcher bed and one lady cleaned and dressed the wound. I was told that a Doctor was coming and that it was not necessary to go to hospital. While the youngest girl, who seemed to be the medic, attended to Peggy, the others waited patiently. In another 15 minutes Doctor arrived also with siren and blue lights. He very carefully dressed the wound and wrote a prescription for the four items needed to change the dressing daily for the next seven days.
Wonderful service. Naturally we were a little embarrassed not thinking that we were really an emergency situation, however not a hint of criticism from Pompiers or Doctor who seemed happy to spend as much time as necessary with us.
Peggy hobbled back on board, still quite shocked I think.

We moved on to Grisolles. Not as nice, road alongside, but a good quay, much safer.

Another English boat already on the quay. Young couple. Sold their house, bought the boat and living on it. (Bought in Holland)
We met so many doing this - I can’t say I approve or think it’s a good idea. I know about all the romantic ideas, do it now while you can. Etc. but what about when you get to 60 with no pension, no house, and nothing in the bank. Having worked hard all my life I am now reaping the rewards and thoroughly enjoying life.

Fri 26th May.
Walked into the town to obtain all the dressings, ointments and magic spray from the pharmacy, also some provisions at the little “Shoppi” housed in a couple of Portakabins.

Peggy was still very shaky and in some pain, however our water tank was nearly empty, there was no water available here and as far as we could ascertain no water point before Toulouse. We decided that we had to get away as soon as possible and make a run for Toulouse.
With hindsight of course the obvious thing, which we should have done, was return to Montech and have a couple of restful days.

Left Grisolles 10 am.
Arrived Toulouse Port de Plaisance (Port Saint Saveur.) at 6pm. A hard day.

A small French cruiser caught us up at the first lock, and we were with him all day.
After each lock he rushed ahead, making a huge wash, but we always caught up and entered the next lock together. He actually saved us a lot of time by having every lock ready as we arrived.
All locks powered and mostly Eclusier operated.

The first three locks on the Midi, entering Toulouse, are in the charge of a female Eclusier who either has marital problems, or perhaps is menopausal - I’m sure she has some excuse for her attitude to boaters.

Lady at the P. de P. also a bit sharp. Moor over there not there, 6.28 Euros for mooring and 2 for water and don’t let your dog pee inside the gate because I have a bitch.

1.     Lateral a la Garonne approaching Toulouse.
     2. Entrance to the Canal du Midi seen from Basin de l’Emouchure.
    3        Ecluse Bayard. (E3 - Toulouse)

Sat 27th May.
Hot sunny day. Walked to the City Centre (Place du Capitole) by a roundabout route through the parks. Coffee at The Café Florida, pleasant, rapid and attentive service. An impressive square, several weddings at The Capitol provided entertainment. Organic market in progress. Preparations for A “Manifestation “ this afternoon.
Carried on through the old part of town to the bank of the Garonne, quite crowded with Saturday strollers, a couple of trip boats operating on the River. There is a canal link from Port l’Embouchure to the river. Headed back to the Place du Capitole and The Café Florida where we took a very good lunch.

Under way again at 3pm.

After Toulouse there is a long stretch of inhabited boats. All sorts but many are large peniches ranging from decrepit to pristine.
After 6Km took a look at Port Sud at Ramonville St Agne, on the outskirts of Toulouse. A large Marina type development. Huge wide slipway here.
(The slipway at Port St Saveur seems to be part of the Sapeur-Pompiers establishment, closed by a locked bar.

At the next lock we caught up with a party of probably teenage girls on a flimsy day boat. Much laughter, fun and bare flesh but obviously no experience of boat handling. We accompanied them through two locks, each time their boat was right at the front in the turmoil of entering water. Much to my relief and surprise no accident happened.

A change in character of the canal compared to the Lat. a la Garonne. This is a very old contour canal, with high banks and very little view from a small boat. Lined with mature Plane Trees. The bank protection relies solely on the roots of these trees.

Speed limit on the Midi is 8Km per hour. We find that we can keep up this speed without unacceptable wake or any wash.

I am now getting considerable water into engine space (only when running) and use bilge pump about every two hours. Shaft seal has possibly been damaged by fishing lines.

Kept going much longer than we intended seeking a mooring. Eventually moored to pins on bankside before Ayguesives. Towpath is a cycle racetrack. Noise from nearby Motorway. (A61 Autoroute des Deux Mers)

Sun 28 May.
Continued through five locks, two of them double. All are the original oval shape but with extension at the downstream end to increase the length. At one time work started to upgrade the Midi to Freycinette dimensions, but this project was abandoned before completion so a full size Peniche is still unable to make through transit coast to coast, except by the drastic means of cutting the barge in half, as we saw a few days ago.
All locks power operated by an Eclusier.

More boats today. Keep seeing the same people of course.

Typical Midi, very windy, canal shaded completely by plane Trees.
Stopped early below Renneville Lock. About 1Km walk uphill to the village. Exactly as described five years ago. Clean, tidy, picturesque, absolutely no commerce.
There are now a large number of new houses, small detached, very well spaced, on the Southern side of the village. Now grown into a sizeable village.

1. Renneville War Memorial.
2. Renneville The Church.
3. It’s too hot, I’m not walking any farther, you will have to carry me.

A good mooring. Stone jetty. Grassy bank. Ideal for dog..
Unfortunately noise from Breeder of German Shepherds about 200m away across canal.

For many miles the Canal du Midi runs in parallel with and close by the main railway line, the A61 Autoroute, and the Route national N113.
In the morning I set of towards the village of Villefranche de Lauragais in search of a Boulangerie. Crossed canal, autoroute and railway, but then came to the Route national. Long straight road with fast traffic. The village consisted of well-spaced buildings disappearing into the distance. Back to the boat without croissants.
Mon. 29 May.
Cold day and wind increased during day, ending with strong winds.

Have not seen any Hotel Barges yet on this trip, has that bubble burst - is it because The Americans are not coming any more.

To Port Lauragais - Combined Halte Nautique and Motorway Service Station - 3 Cans of Diesel.

Through Ecluse L’Ocean and on to Summit Pound. Very difficult to moor, no moorings near “Parting of the Waters.” Turned around and came back near Lock to moor for lunch and then walk to the memorial Obelisk for Riquet
Quote from Guide book “-memorial obelisk for Riquet and a maze of feeder canals all set in an attractive park planted with many native and exotic trees, forming a mature and interesting arboretum”.
At the time of our last visit this was a very attractive place. Unfortunately no one seems to care for it any longer. Un mown, run down. The old mill and accommodation derelict and closed. Obelisk entry gate locked. No visitors. Sad!

1. Riquet memorial obelisk.
2. Feeder channel looking towards canal.
3. The parting of the waters.

To the village of La Segala, nothing of interest, no shops. Moved on to
Castelnaudary.
Here is a town which gives a better impression than it did five years ago. Quite a lot of renovation of older buildings in the town has been carried out. Also to the last remaining windmill and the belvedere with views over the wide plain to The Black Mountains, source of the water to feed the canal.
No sign now of the towns association with the French Foreign Legion. This was the main training base where all new recruits started their time.

We moored under the trees just upstream of the little hump backed bridge leading into The Grand Bassin. This is a huge artificial lake acting as a reservoir for the four-lock staircase just after the town. Remember we are now heading downhill.

Tues. 30 May.
To town before breakfast to buy the croissants. Then a good look round and some shopping.
Water from Crown Blue Line base in the Grand Bassin, helpful, friendly, no charge. Then immediately into the 4-lock staircase. (9.42M fall)
A rapid fall towards the Med. Today also passed a triple, a double and 9 single locks in rapid succession.
All locks power operated by an Eclusier who seldom leaves his control room. No interchange with eclusiers any more as when we would operate one side of the manual locks. No character. A shame to see all the gardens and collections of idiosyncratic ornaments neglected.
No mooring at Bram, quay totally taken by hire boats waiting for customers.
On to a sunny mooring above Beteille.

1. Descending quad staircase after Castelnaudary.
2. View is not always obscured by bank and trees.

Wed. 31 May.
Wind - back into topcoat.
Merlin II went past just as we were unmooring. A 16M Pinder barge, which we have been seeing each day since Toulouse. A cruiser caught us up at the first lock, so three boats locked through together. The two of us quickly left Merlin behind and continued together to Carcassone.

Three single locks and double with single 100M after.
Attractive part of the canal. Very winding in places with views.

Moorings at Carcassonne are stern to quay, but we slipped into a space alongside quay and no one told us to move. 16.40 Euros mooring fee for one night. Exorbitant as I told the Lady Capitaine and her two assistants.

A useful new Supermarket has opened very close to the port.

Lunch in the town square and then walked to La Cite, the medieval walled fortress. Said to be Europe’s largest fortress - but not a great deal of it is original.

The Railway Station is within 25M of the Port, but unfortunately no slipway here.

Thurs 1st. June.
Shopping and sightseeing in Carcassonne. Set off about 11. A single and then a 4-lock staircase with one hire boat. Crossed with 2 boats coming up in the staircase.

Trebes - In Britain we had the slum clearance act, The French have places like Trebes. Narrow streets between concrete coloured featureless houses. Asphalt wall to wall. Not a green growing thing in sight. Sun hardly penetrates into the streets. The area by the canal with a few shops, which could be nice, is totally spoilt by traffic on busy through road.

After Trebes three lock staircase along with 3 hire boats, which made the operation very slow.
A lovely part of the canal. Winding with occasional wonderful views through the trees.
Saw two Hotel boats this afternoon. First this trip.

Moored for the night near Marseillette. Walked to the village but heavy traffic and minimal pavements makes walking through the village difficult. A bar and one small shop. Dismal side streets.

Fri 2nd June.
Set off at 9.30. Grumpy old lock keeper at first lock, but not much delay. On 3Km to triple staircase lock at Fonfile.

We arrived just as two boats were entering the bottom chamber. One of the boats was carrying people with learning difficulties. The Eclusier carefully filled each lock chamber very, very slowly.
By the time we entered the top lock wind had increased considerably and another boat was in sight behind us. - a further wait.
Eventually three boats locked through together. Ourselves, alongside us the small hire boat which we had followed yesterday. Lady driving, Husband managing the ropes, this boat always entered a lock with a series of full ahead, full astern manoeuvres and twizzles from side to side of the lock.
Behind us a larger hire boat. A party of photographers had arrived on the lockside. One of them helpfully took that boats stern mooring line and made it fast to a bollard with a secure knot.
I have never seen a boat hanging on a mooring line before - much shouting and running around. Fortunately this Eclusier, unlike most, was watching what was going on in his lock. Refill lock, etc.
All told we spent One Hour and Twenty Minutes to get through this lock.

Wind became very strong. Past Homps and moored on bank before double lock of Pechlaurier.

Sat 3 June.
Through the Double lock and a couple of Km. To Argen Minervois. The dilapidated Chateau overlooking the village is now even more dilapidated. The dismal hovels edging the road up to the Chateau are now unoccupied and a few more small new houses have been built near to the canal.
One very small shop - very little room inside for customers, but with a wide range of groceries, also bread.

Ecluse Argens. The last lock of this holiday, we are now on a 54Km pound.

Paraza, where we arrived at 12.30 could be a ghost town. Not a soul to be seen. Small streets with front doors opening directly into the street.

A line of permanently moored boats before and after Le Someil. Tourist hot spot, so here are a few pictures.

On to “Au Chat qui Peche” near Argeliers.
Nice meal outside.

Sun 4 June.
Holiday weekend.
Walk to Angeliers, about a Km. A village back from the dead. New houses on the edge of the village. Trees have been planted making the place attractive although obviously this will take time. Still a bit raw at the moment.
Two Boulangeries, Charcuterie, etc. A lively place.

To Capestang. Extensive Moorings almost full, found a spot but quite difficult mooring on tree roots.
Large town with all facilities. Sunday market in centre very well patronised. I found a Newsagent just as he was closing up for lunch, shutter half rolled down, but most helpful, English papers, of course come in.

This was the normal cheerful helpful attitude which we encountered in France, so it was a surprise to us on arrival at Colombier to meet “Captain Jack” the little Hitler in charge of the Port de Plaisance. Although there was plenty of space inside the harbour He insisted that we should moor on the outside bank, against tree roots and a steep dusty bank. Impossible for Peggy and Dog to get off. An accident waiting to happen. (This for 10 Euro per night) Refused to talk to us, turned his back and walked away.
Peggy’s leg was rather worse and we were keen to get to a hospital, so ignoring instructions moored in a vacant place inside the harbour.
The whole surrounding area was “En Fete” A local festival, and the Port is the communal centre of the village. The Tourist Office ladies were very helpful and arranged a taxi for us to the Polyclinic at Beziers. Taxi Driver also was extremely considerate and made sure that we were quickly cared for at the hospital. Good news, no infection evident but prescribed a course of antibiotics. A visit to the Duty Pharmacy for a huge stock of pills and dressings and back to Colombier to the boat.

Topped up with water, Jetons 2Euro from Captain Jack. left the harbour and found a mooring nearby. Absolutely awful. Against trees on a dirty steep bank with passing traffic very close.
A little later in the evening we were sitting at an outside table at the plushest of the Marina Restaurants, when Captain Jack walked past. I engaged him with my best French and tried to ascertain what was the problem. “No problem” he replied, we could moor just across the basin in a vacant space. (I think he had been instructed by the Senior lady in charge at the Tourist Office)
After our meal we quickly moved to this spot, with water and electricity available, and there we stayed for three nights.

Mon 5th June.
Happy now that the boat was on a secure mooring, with electricity supply so that our batteries were on charge, we had ordered a taxi for 08.30. To Beziers Station where we caught a train at 9.36 back West to recover Toyota and trailer.
Once again Rupert travelled as Petit Animal dans Contenir, at a cost of 5.5 Euros. His towelling bag is accepted as a container, though he did not spend much time inside it. Also strictly speaking the small animal should be less than 6Kg. Which he is not. The correct fare for a dog is half tariff.
Retraced our route, being in sight of the canal for a great part of the journey. Arrived at Marmande where we had almost a two hour wait for the local train to La Reole.
Unfortunately being a public holiday it was impossible to find a taxi at La Reole. The Proprietoress at the café near the river bridge was most helpful and spent a long time telephoning around for us. So we set off and walked, across the bridge over the Garonne and along the bund to the farm. Not much more than 45mins walk but a very hot sunny afternoon. Rupert had a couple of sit down strikes and had to be carried for a while.
Back to Colombiers 10.30pm.

Tues 6th June.
Found the Vet in Capestang and arranged for Rupert’s treatment tomorrow. Then took a ride into the hills. Found the delightful village of Minerve.

Wed 7th June.
Up early and everything packed and prepared for the journey. Boat on to trailer - easy, excellent slipway.
Uncoupled trailer again and to Vet for Rupert’s Worm and Tick treatment (Must be administered between 24 and 48 hours before checking in for Ferry or Tunnel.)
On our way at 12.30
It is unusual to get excited about Motorways or Autoroutes, but a spectacular journey up the new A75 towards Clermont Ferand including the Millau Viaduct.
The 4.2 Litres of the Toyota came into their own.
Stopped the night at Municipal Campsite at Montaigut le Blanc, before Clermont. Good site, ample space, interesting old cliff top village to walk to up steep streets.
Small restaurant open.
At the campsite one lady camper, inspecting our unusual caravan, asked “Do you ever use it as a boat?”

Thurs 8th June.
Long days drive to Ouistreham (Caen) Overnight Ferry.

Fri 9th June.
Home 8.30 am.

Boat Engine Hours this holiday. 160Hrs.

Road miles towing boat.
Home to Cahors. 499 Miles.
Cahors to Fontet. 116 Miles.
Fontet to Colombier. (Trailer empty) 242 Miles
Colombier to Home. 658 Miles.