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St Circq-Lapopie

At the time of our last trip to The Midi in Spring 2001, we were unable to explore the Rivers Baise and Lot due to the high water levels. We now planned to return, “Do” not only these two Rivers but also the restored mid section of The Lot, centred on Cahors.
No licence required for the two rivers, so a thirty-day VNF Vignette sufficed, at the very reasonable cost of 60 Euros.

It is now possible and very easy to obtain the VNF licence using their Web Site and a credit card. A big help. (See Links)

Used the same Waterway Guides from five years ago, which proved adequate. Invested £10.99 in a new Michelin “Camping France”. Expensive for two nights use, but our old copy was so outdated as to be useless. Money well spent as it turned up two good sites.

The Land Rover Defender had served well for nine years, but even an enthusiast must admit that this is an extremely uncomfortable vehicle. A real endurance test on a 600 mile trip across France, particularly when hot weather necessitates windows wide open on Autoroute to ward of complete suffocation. In a moment of madness earlier in the year I had purchased a 2-year-old Toyota Land Cruiser Amazon. 4.2 Litre diesel engine and all the trimmings. We set of with some trepidation - could an automatic really tow three tonnes up those French hills?

Rupert, the 18-month-old CKCS, is of course an experienced boating dog having had a month in Ireland and three weeks on the English Canals last year. (OK - nit picking, The Llangollen is in Wales!) Has also had two trips to France previously this year, Deauville for Christmas and Provence in March. So no problems expected there.

No Licence is required for either the Lot or Baise.
Guide - for the Upper Lot we used Guide Vagnon de Tourisme Fluvial. This area is not covered in our copy of Navicarte, Canaux du Midi, but perhaps may be in newer editions.
As always McKnight is interesting but so hopelessly out of date as to be of little practical help.
David Edwards-May gives detailed list of distances and navigation features, but little description. Although the latest 2002 edition is greatly improved and worth having.

Wed. 26th April. Brittany Ferries 23.15hrs. Sailing from Portsmouth. Mont St Michel.
Boarded and straight to bed.

Thurs. 27th April. Time for breakfast and a quick visit to the shop. Rupert had spent the night in the boat, seemed un stressed and happy. Ashore and on the road by 07.30
Stopped at the usual place just outside Ouistreham for Rupert’s “comfort”.
Route via Falaise, joining A28 before Alencon, then past Le Mans, Tours, Poitier.
On to N147 towards Limoges.
The northern part of the A28 was almost deserted.
France has quietly, in the last ten years, built up an impressive Nationwide coverage of Autoroutes. No longer a question of all roads leading to Paris.

Stopped the night at Municipal Campsite at Montmorillon, between Poitiers and Limoges. Cost Euros 6,72 of which 2,68 was for electricity connection.
Once again the boat caused some surprise and amusement by becoming a caravan for the night and resulted in me being able to practice my appalling French on several interested visitors.

Took a walk around town before dinner at a local hotel. In the medieval Cite des Ecrits, on a belvedere close to the church, saw a red squirrel in the treetops just below us. Very close. Wonderful.

Municipal Campsite - Montmorillon

Fri 28th April. Packed and set off before 9.00
The Toyota is a delight. The 4.2 Litre diesel has so much torque that the automatic gearbox has an easy time. Wonderfully comfortable of course and being heavier than the Defender very stable, have not noticed trailer being pushed around at all by wind.
Later as I got used to it, set the cruise control at 65 mph and very seldom need to touch the pedals. The drawback with having so much power is that I still cannot resist the temptation to use it - for example steaming past trucks on long uphill gradients. Fuel consumption suffers accordingly. If I was sensible and only expected to go as fast as we used to in the Defender, then I am sure the consumption would be no more than the Defender. Perhaps even better.

Arrived at Cahors, Babou Marine, at 1.45pm. Met M. Baboulene when he returned from lunch. Cheerful and very laid back. Yes of course you can use the slipway, just get on with it. Very busy congested yard, we were obviously in the way, but nobody seemed to mind. Will be able park Rig permanently tomorrow when some shuffling around has taken place. Long reverse to slipway down narrow track alongside boat trolley rails. Underwater bottom rough with a few large stones and just enough depth for us.

Walked into Cahors Centre, about 2.5Km. Not pleasant at first - traffic and railway.
To Tourist Office for electronic card which is required to operate one lock. 30 Euros returnable deposit.

Evening meal on board. Set up Satellite TV. Obtained good reception, but dish had to be placed on quay. Our little boat is constantly listing one way and the other as we move around and the slightest movement of the dish loses signal.

Village of Pradinese.

After the first lock stopped at the village of Pradines. Picturesque. No shops. Bar closed (permanently)
Moved on to Douelle for shopping but not a nice mooring beneath high embankment wall.
Lunch at a pleasant lock waiting mooring below Ecluse de Cessac.
Care needed, quite a lot of floating debris, logs, etc.

After Cessac a long, 12.5Km pound , which becomes more like a lake as it nears the barrage at Luzech, this being the present end of downstream navigation.

We moored for the night at Caix, about a Km above the barrage. An abandoned semi derelict holiday site. Pontoon mooring but rather wobbly with broken boards.
Quite a few fisherman here in the early evening though we had not seen many all day. Did catch one line, which I had to cut.

There is no village, or shops nearby. We walked into the nearby hills, covered by very carefully tended vines growing in what look like fields of stones with hardly any soil to be seen. Indeed I was surprised to see many newly bulldozed terraces cut into any available space, some still not yet completed or planted. In this age of “Wine Lakes” this must be very special wine produced hereabouts to make such effort worthwhile.

Again able to set up TV with dish on pontoon alongside boat.

In this completely empty river, about 7pm a hire boat from the Locoboat base downriver arrived and moored immediately ahead of us! An American family who we met several times over the next week.

Sun 30 April. Walked to Luzech.

1. Mooring at Caix.
2. Chateau just above Caix, owned by The Queen of Denmark.
3. Excellent Slipway just above the barrage at Luzech. Part of the Locoboat base.
4. Hydro Electricity barrage at Luzech.

Luzech, a very good little shopping centre.
The river makes a full loop around the village, changing course a full 180 degrees.
In the days when the River Lot was a heavily used navigable waterway a 200M long canal bypassed this loop, running across what is now the town main street and square.
Pictures displayed nearby show that this was a deep cut, with two locks. Not a practical proposition to re build now that the town has expanded around this area.

Bought a spray of muguet du bois (Lily of the Valley) in Casino. Have been unable to find out the origins of this French custom of giving Lily of the Valley on May Day.

Returned upstream. The 12.5 Km. stretch from the Barrage to Ecluse de Cessac is in fact a lake or Reservoir. However a current of about 1Km per hour was evident. All hydroelectric plants along the river seemed to be in full use today.

A few hire boats moving today.
Met the Restaurant Trip Boat Fenelon, from Cahors, on a trip as far as Parnac.

In narrow and fast flowing parts of the river the channel is well marked by Red and Green buoys. It is important to observe these marked channels. In several places old locks, now submerged or large rocks just covered by fast flowing water can be seen.

Night at Pradines. Close to excellent football pitches with floodlighting, carefully tended grass areas, wooded wildflower area of several acres. What a wonderful facility for a small village without even a shop.

Tried to barbeque but failure. Using a bag of charcoal, which had been around since last year, obviously damp. Parsimony spoilt the dinner!

Total of four boats here overnight - there are not many possible moorings on this part of the river.

Mon 1st May. Public Holiday.
A few jobs around the boat. Set off at 10a.m. to Cahors, through two locks in company with a party of Germans on a hire boat. Since there is so much manual labour involved in operating the locks on this river, it is very beneficial to share a lock.

Passed our start point at Babou Marine and moored above Pont Valentre, the famous fortified bridge. Plenty of mooring space on same berth as another trip boat. (There are three in all on this 65 Km section of river.) Café, shops and tourist train nearby all very busy.
Walked across the bridge. Coffee at a riverside café, then back to right bank and into Cahors. Walked around old town, much more favourable impression of Cahors than we remember from our last visit, which was in wintertime, when weather was miserable, and we were unable to find a decent hotel. Nice lunch in Central Square.
Continued upstream at 2.30p.m.

Cahors Medieval Town as we cruise upstream.

Ecluse de Coty is fully automated and operated by swiping the electronic card which we had earlier obtained from the Tourist Office. The only lock on this part of the river which is power operated, said to be for the benefit of the trip boat.
Excellent pontoon mooring on left bank just above the lock. New clean pontoons with water and electricity. Close to a sports centre with showers etc available.

In fact although our boat is very small we are self-sufficient, seldom need shore power electricity and have our own very adequate shower on board. Our water is heated either by the engine when in use, or by a 4Kw diesel fired Eberspacher unit.
Main problem is the small water capacity, only 125L, so we must find a water tap every day.

Up river through two more locks to the village of Laroque des Arcs.

Laroque des Arcs.

We tied up at the old stone wharf. Just ahead of us were the American Family from Saturday evening, their boat firmly aground and wedged on an old stone slipway, which protruded straight out from the wharf.
All their attempts to free the boat had failed and when we arrived Father was in the water trying to find what was trapping the hull, while the rest of the family looked on glumly.
We arranged their two long mooring lines from the stern of the boat secured to bollards on the wharf, then with engine full astern combined weight of all the family pulling sideways on the ropes to get a good leverage - she floated free.
Very nice people insisted that we accepted a bottle of wine for our assistance.

The slipway is good, but would myself not attempt to use it because of the tortuous approach, which includes passing under a small bridge very close to the slipway.

Small village with little of interest, but a path leads high above the village to The Chapelle de Saint Roche. We then continued up a steep rocky footpath for more exceptional views.
See photograph of the strange device constructed above the Chapel. Peer through a hole in the plank of wood, through a piece of frosted glass shaped exactly to fit the chapel and the chapel appears to be floating unsupported in the middle of the river.
At the highest point on the edge of the cliffs some other joker has placed a small rowing boat.

1. Laroque des Arcs from The Chapel
2. Chapel floating in the river ?
3. Now who left that there.
4. A little further up the river, above Vers.

Two more locks - the mooring at Lamagdelaine was muddy so on to ARCAMBEL. New good quality pontoon moorings. No water. Picnic area nearby used by a few families.
Satellite TV blocked by a row of Poplars.

Tues 2nd May. Through two locks to Vers. Actually counted the turns needed to lift one paddle - 133 revolutions of the windlass.
All locks on this section of The Lot (except one) are of identical design. Gates are opened and closed using a horizontally mounted handle which engages with an exposed rack just above ground level A latch must be disengaged using one foot - easy to get grease stained shoes.
At Vers a small mini market and a Boulangerie with very little stock.
Mooring is alongside a campsite. Very limited space on pontoon, enough for two boats only. Any more than this have to take their chance amongst the tree roots.

Now entering a dramatic part of the river. Vertical rock face cliffs on one side and a narrow valley bottom. Eagles (I think?) soaring over the cliffs.

Did a couple of locks with a French crew. True to their stereotype - they are on holiday and do as little as possible.

Moored at Bouzies. Two pontoons. A trip boat occupies half of one. The other seems to be a Nicols Hire Base, but not very active and plenty of space.
Nearby small village, no shops. Hotel Restaurant Falaise looks nice but closed - for day or season, unknown.
Narrow valley with small fields in the flood plain valley bottom. Lovely crumbly loam, you could grow anything here.

1. Bouzies. The road on opposite bank between cliff and river, shows Chateau des Anglais. Caves which were occupied by 14th Century English Raiders.
2. Mooring Pontoons at Bouzies with road bridge in background.

Wed. 3rd May. Walked upstream alongside river, past Ecluse de Ganil which is squeezed against the cliff side. Nearby the length where the towpath is cut into the rock of the cliff side. I don’t know when this was done. Explosives were obviously used; the drill holes where explosive was packed in can still be seen in the mother rock.

Ecluse Saint Circq, very pretty with well restored old mill, now a private residence.

5 Km from Bouzies to the road bridge near Roucayral. There is a campsite alongside the river just below the bridge, being developed and expanded, with moorings. A café at the camp entrance was open enabling us to take a very welcome cup of coffee.

1. Towpath inset into cliff face with bass relief carving.
2. Ecluse de Ganil.
3. Restored mill house above Ecluse de Saint Circq.
4. Ecluse de Saint Circq, St Circq-lapopie in the background.

After coffee we set off back towards the boat, but took first the road, then a pleasant path, uphill to St Circq-Lapopie. At first we thought this was just another empty French village. Then we came across The Wood Turners Workshop, stocked with surprisingly expensive hand turned items. Progressing uphill the Bijou, Arty Crafty shops soon came thick and fast, then suddenly the extremely picturesque village square complete with several coaches disgorging visitors, mostly Pensioners on cheap day trips.
Complete contrast to the last few days, our first Tourist Site since the bridge at Cahors.

1. New lock construction upstream from derelict Ecluse de Gregols.
2.      St Cirq-lapopie from the river.
3.     Near Ganil.
4.     Trip boat exiting Ecluse de Ganil.

Returned to Bouzies and spent another night on the same berth.

Thurs 4th May. I have previously mentioned that all locks on this part of the river are of identical design. Fortunately, when on our own, one gate is ample width for us to pass through, thus cutting labour considerably.
Also gates are left just as the boat leaves the lock. No requirement to be open, closed, paddles shut etc. Which saves enormous frustration and work, since the pattern of traffic on any waterway usually gravitates towards one up - one down.

There are no warnings about sills or markings on lock sides to indicate extent of same. When descending be alert. Photo below shows the considerable sill at every lock.

Started the day with a walk downriver as far as Masseries, about 5Km each way. Small fertile fields close to river. I was very interested to see harvesting of Asparagus in progress. Very labour intensive, the Harvesters all seemed to be immigrants. This is the bleached asparagus, only just showing above the ridge of soil when the stem is levered out.
Later saw local Asparagus for sale in shops at 4.5 Euros per 1Kg bundle. Not much profit there for the farmer.

Down river to Vers. Not so lucky with the mooring this time, pontoon already occupied so had to squeeze in between a couple of trees.
The boulangerie still had little stock, only one baguette! Mini market re opened at 4pm after lunch so had a drink at the hotel while waiting.
On to Arcambal. Same mooring as Monday night. Only us on the pontoon. Barbecue tonight.
A Babou Hire boat arrived later with mechanical problems. M Baboulene and his mechanic arrived so we were able to confirm with him that we would be using the slipway on Saturday morning.

On an “enclosed” waterway such as this it is inevitable that one meets up frequently with the same boat over the course of a week.
A week is just the right time to easily cover the area, with time for shore excursions. Perfect for a hire.

The river is relatively wild, but not dangerous. Fast flowing in places, but with the navigation channel always well marked by buoys.
Buoys - Heading Downstream. Red Cans to Starboard.
Green to Port.

Fri. 5th May. The village of Arcambal is only half a Km from the moorings; and Boulangerie is at the nearest edge. I walked with the dog before breakfast for our Croissants. When in France, etc.
After breakfast we took another walk to the village. As well as the boulangerie there I a Bar/Restaurant (Not Open) but no other “Commerce”.
This is another village in decline. Banners protesting about the closing of the village school. Foyer Rural defunct and deteriorating.

On to Cahors. Bankside vegetation being cut above Cahors with resultant mass of debris causing problems for a couple of miles. Through automated Ecluse de Coty, where the proprietor of the nearby watermill tries to inveigle passing boaters into taking a tour of the mill.

Stopped at the same mooring above Pont Valentre, the fortified bridge. A walk around town and lunch. Nice sunny day to sit outside under a sunshade. Returned the Lock Card to the Tourist Office .
A 3pm took a one hour trip on the “Petit Train” We had seen most of the town but it was relaxing to be trundled around and hear some of the history of the old buildings.
Then it was decided that “We” just must visit the hat shop spotted from The Train, so another hot walk back into town centre. A productive walk - Peggy bought two nice sun hats.

Just beaten into the lock by two hire boats who crept up behind me. The rear driver waved me in to the lock with him, but ever distrustful I declined. Wrongly as it happens, there would have been plenty of room for all three of us in this lock, which is particularly wide.
My mistake meant that Peggy had the full operation to do on her own - with 130 turns on each paddle.
She received a round of applause from onlookers on the bridge above as we finally sailed off.

Spent the night at wharf of Babou marine.

When I asked M. Baboulene how much we owed him he replied 15 Euros !!. Slipway in and out, eight days parking, 2 nights berth with water and electricity. I insisted on doing a little better than that. The whole family are absolutely enthusiastic about their river, and desperate to hear that you like it. Father, Mother and Son run the operation at Cahors and Daughter runs the branch at Penne d’Agenais on the Lower Lot.

Sat. 6th May Recovered the boat on to the trailer with no problems and by 10 am were ready to be on our way.

Next phase starts at Fontet on the Western end of the Canal lateral a la Garonne.