Brittany. Aug/Sept. 03

We left home on Saturday evening 16th August for the short tow to Portsmouth Ferry Terminal. Here we were joined by two Grandsons, Kieran, 12 and Daniel 10. Boarded the 20.30 Brittany Ferries sailing to St. Malo, and after exploring the ship, a light meal and drink, retired to bed. Finch no doubt sound asleep on board our Sea Otter, down on the car deck. (For new readers, Finch is a nine year old King Charles, Cavalier, Blenheim Spaniel. Completely deaf and completely confident in his superiority over all other members of this family.)
After our morning ablutions I called next door to get the boys for breakfast and found that they had managed to sleep soundly through all the rousing loudspeaker music and wake up calls. However this did not hold us up. They were ready in about two minutes, without resource to water. We breakfasted and were in time to watch the entrance into St. Malo.

Clear of the Port soon after 7am. After a short stop for Finch’s breakfast and essential needs we headed towards Pontivy.

Guides - We used -  Guide Vagnon de Tourisme Fluvial. No 10. Bretagne et Loire Atlantique. And - Navicarte. No 12. Voies Navigable de Bretagne.

The connected navigable rivers and canals of Brittany are in the form of a cross, with Redon at the centre. The North Western arm of the cross consists of the northern section of the Canal de Nantes a Brest and then the River Blavet running down to the sea at Hennebont. The northern-most restored section of the C de N a B between Pontivy and Rohan has 55 locks in 23 km. I therefore planned to tow to the River Blavet downstream of Pontivy for our launch. This would mean negotiating this heavily locked section only once.

Stopped in Pontivy for a brief look around and coffee. While reversing into a parking space I touched the trailer wheels against a high kerb. I was aware of this, watching the wheels in my wing mirror, but stupidly kept going and scuffed chunks out of the side wall of one tyre. It served until we got home, but I have since changed it for the spare.

On to St Nicolas des Eaux. A small collection of hotels and restaurants lying under the shadow of a high rocky spit of land formed by a dramatic loop in the River Blavet.
A good concrete slipway, overhung by trees and hidden away in a shady riverside park- like area, where several French families were enjoying their picnic Sunday Lunch. We provided the theatre - happily the launch went well,  even though it was necessary to manoeuvre between a few parked cars and reverse across a minor road.

I gave “High Jump” a quick proving burst up and down the river, then Peggy and the boys cruised across and slightly upstream to a small jetty, while I drove around via the bridge. Then lunch in one of the nearby Creperies. About 80% of restaurants in Brittany are creperies. Not, I find, a very satisfying or “manly” form of food and I still don’t know the difference between a Crepe and Gallette.

The little wooden  jetty was actually the operating base of a canoe and kayak hire operation, but the staff were most friendly and helpful and welcomed us to use it. They casually went on with their business around us, while we transferred all our bits and bobs from Land Rover to boat, filled with their water, and generally made ready for our six week trip.
Lots of Sunday afternoon promenaders. In my best pigeon French I put the word around that we were looking for a safe place to leave Land Rover and Trailer for six weeks and “Naturelement, Je voudrais payer”. Sure enough after half an hour a family approached and Monsieur made it understood that he had a very good place which we could use. Most helpful people. They had been one of the picnicking families who had watched us launch. The gentleman accompanied me and I drove about 15 miles to his home. An absolutely delightful little hamlet of about six houses, set around a farm, right alongside the River Blavet. Occupied solely by the brothers and sisters of one family. Our rig could not have been safer. He then drove me back to St Nicolas.
An absolutely burning hot day. The boys had an hour canoe rental, and then a long session swimming and jumping from the top of the boat into the river, an occupation which would take up much time during the next week. No way will I willingly immerse myself in any French navigable waterway. Children however seem happily immune to all forms of waterborne nastiness.
The canoe rental people packed up and went home and we stayed on their jetty for our first night aboard.
Our first Barbecue that evening with ingredients which we had brought from home, using a disposable barbecue also brought with us.
We had set up the bunks before leaving home, and these proved very adequate for the boys. All completely exhausted the night passed quietly.
Finch always sleeps on the dinette seat at the aft end of the boat. The fact that this had been converted into a bunk and contained a boy, he did not accept as a reason to change his habits. So he slept on top of the boy. In the morning we found two heads on one pillow.

Early (ish) Monday morning the boys and I walked all around the village to try to find a Boulangerie. No shops at all. “Pas du Commerce” was a phrase which we would hear very often in the next six weeks in the villages of Brittany. At least 50% of the houses in this village appeared to be second homes.

We set off downriver and were immediately charmed by The Blavet. A peaceful and scenic little river passing through very sparsely populated countryside. The little chapel of St Gildas in the cliff at Gohaze and the rock face on the right bank below Menazen both demand mooring up for a while.
We bought a loaf of bread at a run down little bar at Lann Georges - forget Hugh McKnights report of Baker, Grocer and Restaurant, they are all long gone.
There is a Restaurant alongside the canal between Locks 20 and 21, open lunch times only.
Monday night was spent at Pont Augan.

Tuesday afternoon found us at Lochrist. This was as far as we went down the Blavet, it would in fact have been possible to cruise a further 3Km, through three locks, almost to Hennebont. Good food and service that evening at a nearby pizza restaurant. Shopping in the morning before setting off back upriver.

Wed. 20th. Aug. Overnight again at Pont Augan, but this time entered past the little swing bridge operated by the lock keeper, through the narrow tree lined channel, into the little lake with a few pontoon moorings and camp site. No charge.

Thursday afternoon back at St Nicolas des Eaux. Met the trip boat at lock downstream of St Nicolas. The lady eclusier acknowledged us, she was obviously in charge of two locks, and said she would be with us soon. However after waiting in the extreme heat in the unshaded lock chamber for over an hour I decided to let our boat through myself.
No windlass, but a shifting spanner sufficed. Peggy was just heading off upriver and I was closing the paddles when Msle. Eclusier arrived. A most severe telling off and finger wagging, which soon dissolved into giggles at our attempts to speak English/French respectively.
Stayed the night again at the canoe rental jetty. Evening meal at another creperie.

A brief word about my belief that a woman should never be put in charge of anything.
We were cruising along somewhere on the Blavet, Peggy steering. Suddenly howls and screams from forward. Daniel had hurt himself. I think it was his foot - nothing serious really. However as he hobbles back along the gunwale all thought of steering the boat is totally overwhelmed by this woman’s maternal instincts. She is holding the tiller hard over, oblivious,  boat heading straight for the bank. At the last moment I managed to throw the control into reverse, slightly lessening the resounding crash.

Friday 27th August. Cruised to Pontivy. Another very hot day, so practiced our new game of towing a boy, clinging to the life ring, at the end of our 15m mooring line. At our full 9Km/Hr this gives quite an exciting ride. They love it.
Lunch at a nice jetty near to the Chapel at Gohaze. Tried to walk to the next village with shops, bars, etc. But the map on the information board was not very honest about the nearby main roads and junctions. A good soapy bucket bath for Finch on the picnic table.
At Pontivy we were met by Alison and Donatus who had brought third Grandson. Christian aged Five.
For the next three nights we proved that it is possible for Two Adults, Three Boys and One Small Dog to live on a 23ft boat. Thank heavens the weather was good.

Useful to use the car to visit Intermarche, fill up diesel cans, and buy all the heavies like beer, wine, etc. (especially a good supply of Cremant de Bourgogne.)
Evening meal ashore at yet another Creperie.
When we arrived at the floating pontoon jetty at Pontivy there was a small seagoing yacht moored at the far end of the pontoon. Apart from this, since arriving on The Blavet we had only seen 3 boats in use plus the trip boats at St Nicolas and Pont Augan.
We had only waited at a lock twice, when we encountered the trip boats. Plenty of moorings and water points. No charges anywhere - until Pontivy - here, on Saturday morning, the Lady in charge of the bath house opposite sent a small girl across to summon us to her presence.
We were charged the massive and precise sum of Euro.1.57 for mooring, water, and electricity.(which we did not use) The only other place where we were charged was much later at Dinan. Euro 7 per night. Also good value I thought.

Pontivy, like every other town and village we visited was awash with flowers. Masses of geraniums, covering every bridge, lock, public building , many lamp posts etc.

High Jump had now had a good test on the river. Since our spring venture the Eberspacher water heater and Webasto Space heater had both been repaired (at great expense in the case of the Webasto) and are now working OK, though the Webasto does seem to “Hunt”.
Engine, I have fitted a new thermostat and a tropical tube stack in the heat exchanger. Smaller dia. tubes, meaning many more of them and increased heat exchanger surface.
At last we can use full engine output, 3000 rpm, with absolutely no tendency to overheat. In fact I think engine is actually running a little on the cold side at 160 deg. F..
Checks show a maximum speed of 9Km/Hr, which I would think is about as much as we can expect from this hull form. We feel more comfortable on the big rivers now.
Later on the Vilaine where we cruised for many hours at full speed I established that consumption is 3Litres per hour.

Saturday and Sunday we cruised the heavily locked section of the Nantes a Brest to Rohan.
We had arranged to pass through the last lock of the Blavet at 9 o clock Saturday morning. When no eclusier had turned up after half an hour and I was unable to make contact by telephone, I walked along to the first lock of the N a B. The temporary student Eclusier was sitting in the sun, anticipating no boats that day.
The lock keepers told us that they get about seven boats per week over this section.
However she willingly jumped on her bicycle and came along and operated the river lock for us.

We ascended the 28 locks to the summit and then down one to our Saturday night mooring.
The boys soon got organised with mooring and lock gates. Even little Christian insisted on closing gates himself, trudging round and round in a circle pushing the handle level with his head.
The last ascending locks before the Bief de Partage are a flight of nine locks, very originally named “The flight of nine locks”  A celebration in a nearby restaurant, maybe a wedding, spilled over around the lock area. Onlookers and helpers milled around. The lady eclusier merely watched and made sure each lock was emptied after use, while six or eight willing helpers did all the work. At least one pair of hands on every paddle and gate. No question here of “are you ready”, or in which order should paddles be operated. We flew up through the boiling locks like an express lift. If they were trying to break a record then I am sure it was achieved.

We had used both our disposable barbecues, but that evening Alison and Donatus joined us again having purchased further comestibles and a smashing little barbecue, which packs down almost flat and stores away nicely under the gunwale of our forward deck.

Sunday on to Rohan, down 26 locks. We entered the new Marina/Hire boat base just before Rohan, but went on to the pool just above Rohan lock. Here we moored at an old rather tired floating pontoon. Rohan has a filling station close by in town. Rather poor shops, but adequate.
There is a good slipway just opposite our mooring in the “Port Public” and another in the new marina. We had to motor back to the marina each morning for water.
Evening meal at the only restaurant open - another Creperie!

Monday lunchtime a barbecue on the green near to the boat, usefully provided with picnic table. Then our visitors left for St Malo, Volvo well loaded down including bunk boards and everything except, as we discovered an hour later - the boys passports.
We stayed at Rohan for the rest of the day, recovering.

That night Finch jumped up at our bed and woke us up. Unprecedented. He was obviously missing the three boys, thought that it was not right that they were not there and was telling us so.

Tuesday morning our departure was delayed by moderate rain, but this lasted no more than an hour. Rain is desperately needed. There has been no appreciable rain in Brittany for seven months. Fields are parched and bare. Cattle are being fed with next winters supply of fodder.
The Blavet was running quite well and over the summit of the N a B there seemed to be no problem with water supplies (with only one boat a day passing) but as we approached Rohan we noticed a deterioration in water quality and practically no water passing over the weirs.
After filling with water we moved on, a short days cruise to Les Forges. This little Halte Nautique, on a branch fom the main canal, is approached by a narrow dead straight cut, overshadowed by trees, terminating in a square, steep banked hole, with a floating pontoon, water tap and notice board.
The village of Les Forges is a short walk away and has two bars, a Restaurant (closed) and a mini market.

In every town and village we visited a proportion of shops, bars and restaurants were closed, while proprietors took their “Conges Annual” untroubled that this, the tourist season, might be their only chance in the year to make a little profit.

Arrived at Josselin Wednesday afternoon, the place with the huge Chateau on the edge of the canal. You’ve seen the photograph a thousand times. Somehow the photographs never show the road and cars parked between the Chateau and Canal. Town full of tourists, many English.
Terrible meal in the square that evening. Avoid “La Taverne” at all costs.
We had been seeing preparations for major bank and lock repairs at several places and hearing rumours about the date of canal closure. Tried to get information. The eclusier here was a student who knew nothing about the canal system and was not able to contact anyone within the canal administration who did.
Tourist Information Office knew nothing. They never do, whatever the question. Are only able to hand out pamphlets.
A French couple on a neighbouring hire boat phoned their hire company in Redon and confirmed that this canal closes on Sunday at 19.30hrs.

Next morning I cruised up and down in front of the Chateau while Peggy took the obligatory photographs from the opposite bank and we then continued on our way.

Visited a couple of small villages through the day. Arrived at Roc Andre but mooring is beside a dusty caravan park. Returned a mile upstream to an isolated jetty.

Friday 29th August called in at Malestroit. What a pretty, picturesque, perfect, town. Obviously an enormous effort is made not only by local authorities but by townspeople themselves to achieve this effect. This implies a great pride in their town. As we sat outside a café with a pre lunch beer, admiring the masses of flowers everywhere, I was trying to work out just what it is that makes  a French town different to an English one. After all we have plenty of “Olde World” charming tourist centres. Then I realised, there was not a white line, not a yellow line - single or double. No “No parking”, “No waiting” or any other sort of sign. The townspeople seem to manage without all these petty restrictions - just behave in a sensible and civilized manner - live and let live.

Stopped that evening at a wonderful long new quay near Peillac. I have no idea why such a facility has been built. Concrete, with beautiful wooden rubbing rails. Water, electricity, good access. There must be room for twenty boats, but this night there was only us and one hire boat away up the other end.

A little rain this evening, but hardly enough to wet the dust. We have started to see considerable growth of blue/green algae, but it will be a couple of weeks before we see any notices warning of the danger and banning swimming and water sports. The appearance of these notices made no difference anyway. Young school children were still being given their canoeing and sailing lessons.

Saturday 30th August Peggy and Finch set off walking along the towpath, while I completed a bit of maintenance and cleaning. They had 30 mins start so I did not catch them until the next lock, 7Km on.

None of the lock keepers were able to confirm the closing of the canal tomorrow evening. Lack of communication by canal authorities taken to the ultimate. Not surprising, we have found this to be the norm on all French waterways.
A lot of new bankside sheet piling has been installed along the lower part of the canal and here large stocks are piled ready. New gates are to be installed at La Maclais this winter.
Many of the locks are already power operated and ready for automatic operation if this is implemented.
General condition of this canal is very good.

Left turn and up the River Aff to Gacilly.
The 8Km approach to the village is great. First a marsh area, just like The African Queen, although I paid careful attention to the marker poles and did not have to get out and pull. Then a narrow river through woodland, unfortunately at the moment with zero flow. The guide book has a photograph of a large foaming weir at the head of navigation. At the moment this is a stagnant pool with only a trickle of water coming over the weir. However still plenty of depth for boating.
Gacilly markets itself as a Centre of Art. Classed as an “Eco Canton” by The Ministry of the Environment. Lots of Craft Shops. One street devoted to little knick knackery workshops. Pottery and Onyx working are said to be the speciality. But the displays of flowers, cobbled areas, etc is beautifully and tastefully done.
Good Market Hall - cheese cake and a very tasty soft blue cheese.
This is the home of The Yves Rocher organisation and the factory and museum can be visited just outside the village.
Electric day boats for hire from an Englishman just beside the visitor moorings.

Left Gacilly after lunch, back down the River Aff to Glenac. Floating pontoon used by a hire company as an out base but plenty of mooring space. Walked around the village then continued on to Painfaut.
Good moorings with water supply. Bar/Restaurant nearby. Walked up forest trails to a viewpoint back over the river and nearby memorial to Local resistance fighters shot by Germans at this spot.
When we arrived back at our boat we found that a Hire Boat with a party of Germans on board had moored with their bow six inches from our stern. Can not criticize them, this is what they are instructed to do, be considerate , make full use of moorings and leave space for other boats arriving. However in view of the dire lack of boats in the area we thought this unnecessary and since we value our privacy decamped to a spot in a field across the river about half a mile downstream. (We know we offended them, because we met several times over the next week and received a very definite cold shoulder.)
Barbecue that evening, visited occasionally by a horse - a complete vegetarian, so no bother.

Next Morning, Sunday 31 August, fog was so thick that we had to wait a little while before we could venture back upriver for water.
On to Redon. A sharp right turn into the Ecluse d’isolement and into The Grand Basin, this being the port de Plaisance. We are now on the level of the River Vilaine. This level being maintained by the Barrage 40Km. Downstream at Arzal, all the way to the first lock at Malon 37Km. Upstream from Redon. Seagoing yachts can easily reach Redon without unshipping their masts and many use this basin for wintering. However at this time there were finger pontoons available and we moored up and explored the town. Very quiet, being Sunday. Another town with fantastic displays of flowers on every possible surface. The town is bisected by a main railway line passing very close to the massive old Church of St. Sauveur, but the centre near the rail line is a very well designed cobbled area with large pedestrian underpass, so that with the additional aid of the masses of flowers the railway does not intrude.
Filling station nearby closed all day Sunday.
We knew that we would be passing through Redon two more times, so did not dally very long. Left the Grand Basin and moored up on the river bank just outside for lunch. Quiet park like area. Picnic tables. A few people strolling.
After lunch set off with the intention of heading upstream towards Rennes. However found the river closed (by Municipal Decree, no less) for some water sports event, until 6pm. No matter, set off downstream towards the sea.
Broad river. Flat countryside. Fairly uninteresting this stretch.
After 7km past the entrance to the Southern section of the Nantes a Brest. Broad river now. Under the huge swing bridge at Cran, which allows seagoing vessels up to Redon.
Stopped at a good new pontoon jetty at Beganne. In open countryside, no habitation nearby. This mooring is new and not shown in either of our River Guides.
Very good slipway here - during the entire journey so far we have noticed many slipways, far too many to list. Mostly of good quality and many of them new. No problem for any trail boater to find launching or recovery sites without need for much pre-planning
Walked about a couple of miles, over the flat river plain (tarmac road) and then uphill to Pellouan, a much tidied and prettified village with many houses undergoing modernisation. A good selection of all necessary facilities and all closed, except for a couple of bars, so we were able to fortify ourselves for the return walk.
We learned later that many English have bought houses in this village.
Moved downstream and across to a field mooring for the night.

Monday  1st Sept. A little way downstream to Foleux, where we moored to take water. Hundreds of yachts moored here at jetties and buoys. No village nearby.
On to the picturesque town of La Roche Bernard, another major Yachting centre, however we headed right into the centre of the harbour and moored on a stone quay near to the trip boat and restaurants.
Short walk uphill to the old town centre for shopping. A little longer walk brings you to a couple of Supermarkets. Walked back the long way round by The Old Port, and viewpoint with its antique canon.
Very hot day again. Lunch outside a restaurant about five metres from our boat. Moules Mariniere. Very good and reasonable price - then ridiculously priced and not very good coffee.
After lunch I walked back through the town with my folding trolley and three diesel cans to a Shell station on the main road. This filled in the time until three o clock when we trudged back up the cobbled hill for the third time to the Vet. On the far side of town.
For the last couple of days Finch had been scratching madly (and annoyingly) through the night. We were pretty sure it was not fleas and indeed the Vet diagnosed a skin irritation possibly caused by the dry dusty condition of the towpaths. He has been walking considerable distance each day.
Cruised down to the barrage at Arzal, 42 Km downstream from Redon.. Below Roche Bernard the river narrows and flows between high cliffs.
Huge Yacht harbours at Arzal and Camoel just above the barrage. We turned back and moored in an isolated spot in a field about a mile upstream.

Tuesday 2nd Sept. Returned to La Roche Bernard, same mooring, Shopping. Foleux for water. Stopped at bankside for lunch. On to Redon. Moored before port, on bank alongside park.

Wed 3rd. Sept. Moved in to the visitor moorings at Redon. Very convenient position. A Total Filling Station is situated about 400M to the left. Excellent Boulangerie just across the road about 100M to the right. Also to the right, over the bridge crossing the N a B and bear slightly left for a little way there is a supermarket and a Gamme Verte. Town centre walk along a pedestrianised (This is France, beware of cars) street of shops to the square and large Church, Covered market close to here. Go on a little under the underpass under the railway and a better selection of shops will be found. Behind you, across the Grand Basin is the Old Town, on the island formed by The Grand Basin, River Vilaine and the dead end portion of the N a Brest Canal. Several small interesting restaurants here - all closed each time we tried.
A pleasant town to walk around admiring the magnificent displays of Geraniums.
Moved out to our River Bank mooring for lunch, then headed upstream on the Vilaine.
Every village on the Vilaine has a very good quality mooring, pretty and well cared for, most with water point. Also many slipways. We stopped at Brain and Besle.
Mooring between villages is however almost impossible. The river banks are protected by walls of rough boulders, and where this is not the case are extremely shallow. I tried a couple of places and went heavily aground and blocked the cooling water strainer before I learned sense.
This resulted in continuing farther and later than we wished. First mooring Horaire. (St Anne sur Vilaine.)
Thurs 4th Sept. We moored up yesterday evening astern of a cruiser, looked like an ex hire boat. Middle aged French couple on board. Husband deliberately would not catch the eye so that he did not have to speak. Wife seemed more sociable, had a chat when we met on the jetty with respective dogs.
This morning we noticed husband fiddling with an outboard attached to the stern of the cruiser. Eventually he gets it going, however we are having breakfast and did not actually see them leave. Mid breakfast we hear plaintive cries “S’il vous plait, S’il vous plait.” And there is husband, standing on the stern of his cruiser, mooring rope in hand, gently drifting past our window.
We go out, catch ropes and get him heaved back to a safe mooring just ahead of us - then we get the full story. -This was a friends boat, which they had to return to Messac about 10 Km upstream. The engine had broken down in Redon, but had been repaired by a local mechanic. However it had now broken down again. Yesterday evening the mechanic had visited and fitted the emergency outboard engine which had been stored on board unused for two years.
I gave the outboard a good looking at and got it going OK. Then our new friends cast off again and set off upstream. We watched bemused as the boat described a graceful turn to Starboard and ended up hard aground in the centre of the nearby slipway.
Further examination showed that the driver was trying to steer the boat with the normal rudder, but the outboard was not secured and was free to flop from side to side at will thus completely overpowering any rudder effect.
Well we all pushed and pulled and paddled about, but the boat was absolutely immovable.
In desperation tried to use our boat to pull them off. Not having done this sort of thing before my first attempt was a fiasco, I had attached the line to our Starboard Quarter which had the immediate effect of swinging me around on to the rocky river bank. Got off with great difficulty and a slightly damaged rudder. Next attempt I was better prepared, and a full throttle pull in the right direction quickly had the recalcitrant cruiser afloat.
Now what to do - my plans had not extended beyond this point - Husband is standing on the jetty feebly waving a mooring rope, wife is flapping about on board in a panic and we are all drifting slowly towards the dense mass of overhanging trees on the opposite bank.
Fortunately I managed to use a sort of pendulum effect to swing the cruiser around in a full circle on to the jetty. Once safely moored “We made our excuses and left.”
In less than a couple of Km arrived at Port de Roche. Here we visited “The English Garden.” In the grounds of an ancient Manor House which reputedly was a centre of resistance during the last war. The garden was laid out by an English Television Personality, who I am afraid I have never heard of and so can not remember. For the last two or three years it has been owned by another English couple who obviously devote their whole lives to its upkeep. Has suffered somewhat through this exceptionally dry spring and summer. Whether it is worth the 5Euro entrance fee is a matter for personal taste.
Arrived at the ecluse de Malon during the sacred lunch period. As I mentioned before it is absolutely impossible to find casual mooring on the Vilaine and there is no waiting jetty below the Lock. I had managed to scramble up a precipitous earth bank and get one rope around a signboard, when the Eclusier came out of his cottage and worked us through the lock - in the middle of his lunch break. Very helpful and much appreciated.

Next stop Port de Guipry, Messac is on the opposite bank. A large interesting old mill which sits on the island in the centre of the river has at some time been converted to a Restaurant, but now abandoned to the pigeons. A few other bars and restaurants in the immediate vicinity of the port. No shops. About 2Km walk along a straight road with plenty of traffic to village of Guipry, but Supermarket and filling station half way.

La Bruere overnight. The village of Saint Malo de Phily is nearby on a hilltop. I say nearby because an absolutely massive Church seemed to be very close, but although I set out with Finch to walk to it, the road seemed to go on and up for ever. Did not actually make it.

Fri 5th Sept. In the area of Pont de la Charniere the river runs under high cliffs on the left bank. Prominent on the highest point is a large Cross. Obviously we had to walk up to it!
The mooring below the bridge on the right bank was occupied, but on the left bank is a large Restaurant/Leisure area. We squeezed in amongst the pedalos on a rickety wooden jetty. Steep paths through woodland to the top of the cliff. Spectacular views across the river and over countryside in the opposite direction. Then a heart stopping moment when we realised that Finch, who had been happily sniffing around the woods, was also admiring the view, standing on an unsupported tussock of grass overhanging the shear cliff face. Managed to grab him and vowed to be more careful in future.
Lunch time stop at Bourg des Comptes. Quite a walk to village shops.
Evening at Pont Rean. Very handy filling station. Useful shops and two restaurants at either end of the 18th Century, eight arched bridge.
Ample moorings on finger pontoons with water and electricity.
Unfortunately the unobtrusive old warehouse nearby suddenly transforms itself at eleven o clock on a Friday Evening, into a well patronised and very noisy Disco.

Sat 6th Sept. By late morning we were approaching Rennes. Nowhere attractive to moor so took lunch waiting in Ecluse Comte, the last before Rennes. Arriving in Rennes found a long expanse of empty stone quay. Just a few ex commercial Peniches in residence. Very poor mooring bollards. Empty bottles lying around and a few strange characters lurking. Unpleasant surroundings - general feeling of insecurity.
The roads between the Port and town centre are very pedestrian unfriendly, noisy with heavy fast traffic.
We moved on.
Having told the last Eclusier that we would be staying in Rennes, we naturally had problems finding the Eclusier for Ecluse No 1 of the Canal d’Ille et Rance. However once I telephoned the correct number she arrived very quickly and cheerfully passed us through.
The next lock, St Martin is interesting. The top gate pivots downwards so that it lies flat on the canal bed. No paddles, but the action of water entering the lock chamber over the top edge of the descending gate is very smooth and unobtrusive.

Moored for the night at St Gregoire. Was once probably a small village, but now a pleasant suburb of Rennes grouped around the old church, beautifully restored. A charming modernisation with superb small shopping centre. The boulangerie is excellent.
Canal area well used for recreation, jogging, canoeing, families walking etc. but all disappeared by 7pm and left us in peace.

Sun 7th Sept. Hoards of runners out this morning on the towpath. Peggy had walked on with Finch while I filled the water tank when about 50 runners, a club complete with leader giving his speech, assembled just alongside the boat. However I unrolled my hose through the centre of the group and instructed one of the runners to turn on the tap when I waved. They set of with only a very few getting feet tangled in my hose. Unlike the poor lady who had come a real pearler earlier over my mooring rope - it was tied to a mooring bollard! But the regular runners had made a little path between bollard and quayside to avoid a gate. I quickly hammered in a pin close to the waters edge to avoid any more grazed knees.

About 11am arrived at Betton. A large market was taking place on a tarmac area immediately alongside the canal. A couple of resident barges, but plenty of room for us to moor right alongside the stalls. Attractive displays of bread and meat, but best of all we bought Oysters. A couple of dozen, which we ate with lunch before moving on.
Saint Medard sur Ille for the night.

Mon. 8th Sept. Through a further seven locks and on to the 7Km long summit pound. Altitude 65M.
Stopped for lunch at an isolated quay near road bridge over the D82.
Very low water levels on these upper reaches. Rain today, steady, but cleared up by 4pm.
Arrived at the “11 ecluses de Hede” Here each Eclusier attends to three locks. No other boats, so no waiting. Descended the first 8 to the mooring at Madeleine.  Also a Camper Van park. A couple of vans arrived late afternoon, but plenty of space.
The town of Hede about a mile away along a straight road then a short climb up to the centre. A rather unsuccessful shopping expedition, this being Monday.

Tues 9th Sept. To Tinteniac, shopping. Saint Domineuc - long walk to village - nothing.
Evran for the night.
Wed. 10th Sept. Shopping and fuel top up at Evran.
Past the 14th Century Abbey at Lehon, to the last lock before Dinan. Met the trip boat from Dinan coming upstream into the lock also several electric hire boats. Were greatly amused when we had to wait for the hire boat to leave the lock while the driver sang his jolly boating song to the busload of pensioners on board - obviously all part of the package.
Dinan is visible soon after, high above the canal. Now enter an impressive gorge. Care needed as the canal is bordered by ancient wooden piles, many barely protruding above the water. Under a high level modern viaduct and old narrow stone bridge and Port of Dinan comes into view. The port although part of Dinan forms a village of its own, with picturesque stone houses facing the quay, many restaurants, shops, hotels, etc.
Seagoing yachts can reach here with masts still in position, so our little canal boat was once again the odd one out. However vacant mooring found on a floating quay. Near road, but no noise overnight. Not very far to woods and footpaths to walk dog.
Cost of mooring here 7.50 Euro per night. Includes water and electricity.
Dramatic walk up the steep cobbled Rue de Jersual which leads from the River Port to the old town of Dinan. Leaning medieval houses on each side, and sewer drain down the centre. (Modernised now with gratings and fortunately no longer used for its original purpose.) Rather like a film set - charming in its rather neglected and completely undeveloped state.
Dinner that evening in the most expensive of the  restaurants facing across the port. Good - but no better than that.

Thurs. 11th Sept. Several days could be happily filled in Dinan.
Thursday is market day. However we did not spend very long there, mostly the same old stalls which we had already seen at several other towns. We climbed the “Tour de l’Horloge” Visited the Ramparts and the Jardin Anglais, but plenty more remaining for the next visit.
Lunch, Mussels, specialist restaurant near town centre.
After lunch walked back to the boat and cruised down river as far as the Barrage at Lyvet.
Very small village but large expanse of pontoons and buoy moorings for yachts. Tide was out so on the far side of the barrage river looked rather insignificant. A muddy channel flanked by numbers of crude fishing huts on stilts. Fishing in these parts is done with a large net on a steel frame lowered and retrieved from the river bed by a hand winched crane.
Back up to Dinan following the buoyed channel through the expanses of open water and moored again at our same berth.
Friday 12th Sept. After another morning exploring Dinan set of back upriver. To Treverien.
The Halte nautique is alongside a camping/caravan site. Unoccupied at this time. Close by sports fields, floodlit, with huge changing room /clubhouse. Amazing facility to find in a tiny little village with no major residential areas nearby.
The guide book promises the delights of Supermarket and Restaurant - a few years ago maybe, but firmly closed now. We did come across a Boucherie. Appeared to be open. Activity inside. Then we found that the local Pensioners club used it for playing various games - the most popular seemed to be the throwing of heavy steel rings across the room in the direction of a large nail sticking up from a board.

Sat. 13th Sept. This is actually a canalised river and villages are all set back at least a mile from the canal on the edge of the flood plain. La Chapelle aux Filtzmeens is typical. A small hamlet near to the canal, then a long hot walk along the straight road, past empty camping and caravan site, to the village. Small village, large Church, crossroads, a boulangerie and bar. We were lucky, both were open, so we were able to buy bread and fortify ourselves before returning to the boat. About two o clock a hire boat went past in our same direction. We were nearly ready to leave, so to avoid waiting at subsequent locks we quickly threw everything on board and followed on.
We accompanied this boat through eight locks to La Madeleine. It was manned by three American Couples, Probably late sixties. The three Gentlemen were all Ex Nuclear Submarine Commanders. That boat must have had the most over qualified crew ever. I asked them how on earth they ever made a decision with Three Captains on board - but apparently one was more senior and had in fact trained the other two, so I don’t suppose that was a problem.
The Halte Nautique at Madeleine was quite busy with boats and camper vans, so we moored on the opposite bank this time, initially near to picnicking families, but they left early in the evening.
We walked once again the long road and up the hill to Hede. The Spar Supermarket and Boulangerie were open, which surprised us at six on a Saturday evening. However I was able to buy steak and sausages for a barbecue that night. (Also of course vegetable pates and salmon from the freezer cabinet for Peggy - cook very well on a sheet of tinfoil.)

Lovely weather for an evening barbecue. Met another ex Shipping Company Superintendent taking his Catamaran Yacht in the opposite direction. (Heading for Plymouth.)

Sun 14th. Sept. Ascended the remaining eight locks of the Hede Flight to the Bief de Partage. Stopped for lunch at the same mooring used when arriving in opposite direction.
A small hamlet nearby is shown in Guide Vagnon as boasting a Restaurant. Exploration found this to be a small house, with a handwritten sign on the gate, apparently selling Crepes to take away. Not tempted.
Stone quay is bordered by a large grassy area. Probably an important transhipment point once upon a time.


During lunch a motley assortment of Horses, Ponies and horse drawn traps arrived, even a donkey cart. Wonderful stopping point. All unharnessed and settled down for lunch.
Our American friends passed and we once again caught up with them at the next lock and voyaged together for the rest of the day.
We stopped at an isolated bankside mooring, they went on to Betton.

Mon. 15th Sept. To Betton for shopping. This visit found on the left bank, only a short distance from the canal, a large Supermarket and shopping centre. After carrying purchases back to the boat walked again to  the town centre on the Right Bank, up the steps past the old church.
After lunch moved on and passed through Rennes without stopping.
Unpleasant experience as we were entering Lock No 4 on the Vilaine. Engine stopped. A very fortunate timing, the boat drifted onward exactly to the position I would have wished in the lock. I assumed that I had allowed the engine to run out of fuel and while the Eclusier waited poured 10L from one of my cans into the tank, restarted the engine, and ran it for a few minutes to purge all air from the system.
However a few more failings over the next few miles. We stopped overnight at the VNF service Quay near Bruz.
Investigated fully and established that the fuel level had certainly not fallen below suction pipe. Ran at full load for an hour to make sure that all air had been purged.
Over the next few days found that problem only occurred if tank level fell below about half and eventually decided that fault must lay in the fuel lift pump.(Engine mounted transfer or feed pump)
Since returning home I have checked the pump and found no fault, but believe that the pump retaining nuts had slackened off so that the pump was not being held firmly against the operating cam. This would have resulted in very small movement of pump lever operating the diaphragm and minimal pumping effect. I hope I am correct, will not know for sure until next Spring.

Tues 16th. Sept. Pont Rean. Diesel Water, etc. Very good hardware shop in the main street.
Stopped again at Pont de la Charniere. This time on the small quay on right bank. Very well built wharf, just large enough for one boat. Appears to have been built to serve a passenger boat - perhaps trip boats operated here once. Walked to Plechatel. Very scenic road rising through the forested area to the village set high on a plain. However not pedestrian friendly. Blind bends, fast traffic, no escape!
After this could not find a mooring. Did not want to spend night at the busy quay at Guipry, but had decided that this was inevitable when just before Messac came across a lovely field bank, in a deserted area, obviously abandoned by agriculture some years ago and now picturesquely wild.  Ideal mooring.
Wed. 17th Sept. Through one lock to the quay at Guipry/Messac. Took water and washed dog. This time walked towards Messac but found this a very unatractive and noisy road, so did not reach town centre.
Through the last lock at Malon and then the long run downriver to arrive at Redon for the third time. Still very hot.
We moored at our same spot outside the Port de Plaiscance. Confident of a good meal ashore that evening got smartened up and wandered off about 7pm.
No ! The only restaurant we found open was a very expensive and formal establishment. Not really wanting the full four course ceremonial after a hot and tiring day, we ate at the only other possibility - A creperie !!

Thurs 18th Sept. Peggy went off to the town for shopping while I spent a couple of hours checking over the engine to try to establish why we were getting this cutting out problem.
Changed fuel primary filter, but completely clean. Unable to unscrew secondary filter.
Finch sat on the bank and watched - occasionally wandered of to check walkers. Ideal mooring, so close to the town but away from roads, noise, and bustle.
Moved in to the Port, on to a visitor mooring. Water and diesel from the nearby Total station. Back out to our bankside mooring for lunch.
Downriver (for the second time) Passed the entrance to The Southern Nantes et Brest and about half a mile further on moored at Riex on the Right Bank.
Mooring is close beside the remains of an ancient Fortified Hilltop Chateau. Laid out with footpaths and informative notice boards. Spent an interesting hour here, then walked to the village on the D114. Again , must comment how transformed an ordinary little village can be by the masses of well kept flowers at every conceivable point.
Left The Vilaine through the Ecluse de Belions with its rise of about six inches. This is the second lock we have come across with a horizontally pivoting top gate.
The first pound is 23Km long. We went only as far as Pont Miny.

Fri. 19th Sept. Soon after setting off ran into very thick mist. The river here passes through a low marshy area and is wide with a rather indeterminate channel.
Edged on slowly. Did meet one boat coming down in opposite direction, but visibility at times was very low and navigation difficult.
Guenrouet is a large Port de Plaiscance with restaurants and other facilities, however season is obviously over and just about deserted. A couple on an old cruiser were attempting some sort of repairs and enjoying a few beers although it was only 10.30 in the morning. We became much better acquainted with them as the day progressed.
Walked up the hill to the village for various shopping.
When we returned the French cruiser was just setting off upriver - same direction as ourselves.
Only five locks between here and Blain, but every second lock is self operated.
At the first lock we caught up with THEM.  Sitting in the lock chamber having a heated discussion, probably what to do next. French man was totally blotto. Lady companion obviously had no knowledge or aptitude re operation of boats and locks.
It was a slow weary journey to Blain - where we managed to moor well away from our new friends.
Blain is a moderate sized town with a couple of restaurants alongside the P.de P. About ten minutes walk to the town centre with good selection of shops.
Across the canal is the huge Chateau de la Croulaie. Most impressive. However less interesting close up - restored, owned by the Town Council, and used for functions, conferences, etc.
Just along the towpath a group of travellers were camped, but with horse drawn living vans. These vans were modern purpose built on pneumatic tyres, and the horses picketed in a field nearby were an extremely strong healthy good looking bunch. That evening they started wonderful jazz/fiddle session. Some good enthusiastic musicians.

Sat 20th Sept. Street market this morning in Blain. Bought Oysters.
Over the summit to a towpath mooring.

Sun 21st Sept. To the end of the Nante et Brest Canal. Through Ecluse Quiheix, where we filled with water while in the lock. This was very slow, but the Eclusier waited patiently.
Out into the broad Erdre. About ¾ of a Kilometre wide at this point. A signpost planted in the centre of the waterway directed us upstream towards Nort sur Erdre. A little way upstream the Erdre narrows to about the size of the upper Thames. Hundreds of drainage channels run at right angles into the river and many have become moorings. Many waterside homes tucked away, each with a plot of land and channel suitable to moor a boat safely away from the river.
At Nort Sur Erdre, the head of navigation, we found a spacious basin with ample pontoon moorings. Free water and electricity and a good slipway. This looked like a good place to use for our recovery on to trailer.

Mon. 22nd. Sept. Found a Vet within walking distance. Finch had one partly closed and running eye, which turned out to be a small ulcer in the bottom of the eye. Probably caused by dust, but something to which he is rather prone. Ointment prescribed. We also booked to have the worm and tick treatment done on Friday, ready for ferry from Caen on Saturday night. Unfortunately this vet did not have any of the French Government forms, (01/16042000/002.PTS Ministere de L’Agriculture et de la Peche.) and intended to use a Faxed copy. We had got away with this in the Spring when the postal strike was on, but had been warned that it was not normally acceptable. The form should be an original from a numbered pad.
Set off downstream. By the time we arrived back at the entrance to the N et Brest canal a very strong wind was blowing. Took shelter in the entrance to the canal and moored alongside the lock waiting wharf to take our lunch.
After lunch continued Southwards but by this time the wind was blowing even harder.
The Erdre broadens in to the lake of Mazerolles which is 1.5 Km broad. Waves were 18 inches high. Not much at sea, but quite substantial for a 23ft canal boat. However our Sea Otter handled the conditions excellently. Conditions would have to be much worse than this before I became worried. The main problem was that quite a few Wind Surfers were enjoying the windy conditions, making fantastic high speed runs across the lake at right angles to our course. I was almost blinded by the rain blasting in my face and I assume that they could not see much either. Confusion for a few minutes when one capsized just ahead of our bow.
Arrived at Suce sur Erdre where the river narrows right down and makes a 90 deg. Bend to pass under a small road bridge.
Tried the most picturesque moorings first, but far too exposed and uncomfortable. Returned under the bridge and tied up at floating pontoon visitor mooring not far from a hire boat base.
Excellent slipway. Water and electricity available at no charge. Nice small town with shops, restaurants etc. A supermarket at the old railway station site about 15 mins walk from the boat.

Tues 23rd. Sept. Found another Vet. Within walking distance. This chap understood the travel scheme and had a supply of the Government Forms. Decided that this is where we would start our homeward journey.
Also more convenient as the bus journey to Nantes would be much shorter than from Nort.

Continued downriver to Nantes.
The guide book describes The Erdre as one of the most beautiful rivers in France. Broad and placid, it is certainly very attractive, the vallley is known as “The jardin de Nantes”. Many fine-looking Chateaus and manor Houses overlooking the river and open areas of grass and forest descending to the banks.
Villages become closer together approaching Nantes. A couple of ferries. Many sailing and canoeing schools, a few trip boats - huge sleek monsters owing very little to traditions of river or sea.
Entering the City of Nantes we passed the Capitainerie on The Isle de Versailles and continued through the Tunnel St Felix to the Basin Malekov adjacent to the lock leading into the Tidal Loire.
Appeared an attractive Port de Plaiscance here, so we found a mooring on one of the pontoons and wandered off to find the person in charge and pay our dues. Unable to find any sort of Office. Took the opportunity to examine the Lock leading out into The Loire. Tide was out at the time. A vast expanse of mud with deep scoured out channels stretching away towards the river. (We will do this one day - the link up to The Pays du Loire)
Eventually ascertained from a workman at the lock that we should be addressing the Capitainerie which we had passed before the tunnel. Now we realise that having closed the security gate to the jetty behind us, confident that we would be given a key when we paid our dues, we can not get back to the boat. Telephoned the Capitainerie and explained our predicament. They told us to wait by the gate, someone would come and let us in.
Actually a boat owner happened along and unlocked the gate for us. We had passed back through the tunnel before we met the Port Authority RIB speeding to our rescue.
We then found out that the visitor moorings were on Versailles Island and were not available in Basin Malekov.
Turned out to be a pleasant, quiet and safe mooring. Security gates were locked at 8pm. (We were given a Key.) The island is laid out in the style of a Japanese Garden.
Much to do and see in Nantes. Modern shopping streets as well as the narrow maze of the medieval quarter.
We had to take afternoon tea in the Café named “Brasserie la Cigale”  famous for its Way over the top décor - rococo mixed with Italian mosaics - so I am told.
An abundance of restaurants, and everything within walking distance of the boat. We ate ashore lunchtime and evening.

Wed. 24th. Sept. Spent the morning walking around Nantes, then returned upriver to Suce sur Erdre. Arrived in plenty of time to walk to the small commercial centre on the site of the long gone railway station.
Meal at a café in lovely position overlooking the river.

Thurs. 25th Sept. Up bright and early to catch the bus to Nantes at 8.05 am. Almost full, mostly with senior school or college students travelling to Nantes. Very quiet and well behaved. Very cheap. Comfortable, speedy ride. A little traffic delay after entering the city.
Bus dropped us off outside the Railway Station entrance. Just nice time to get tickets and a cup of coffee before catching the train to Redon. Finch in his towelling bag -5 Euros fare for, “Un petit animal dans container”.
Changed at Redon, same platform, only six minutes wait and both trains absolutely on time. Arrived at Hennebont just after noon to find that this is market day. Very large market near to the old ramparts. Unable to find a taxi until 2pm. But this suited well. Time to take a snack lunch and sightsee.
My map from Navicarte was extremely helpful in locating the farm where I had left the Land Rover. All safe and sound. Enjoyed a pleasant run back to Suce.

Fri. 26th Sept. Most important thing first. To the Vet and get Finch treated for worms and ticks as required to re-enter UK. Then took opportunity for a sightseeing trip in the Land Rover. Followed the River Loire for some way upstream to Champtoceaux, perched high above the river on the South Bank. Obtained a leaflet of walks from the tourist office and did an excellent 2 Hr walk, down to the river, along the bank for a couple of miles and eventually around in a circular route back to the town. On to Ancenis for a late lunch at a pavement Café.
The river is affected by tides as far upstream as Ancenis. Water level is maintained by many groynes protruding at right angles from the bank into the channel. Water flow in some places around the end of the groynes is quite fast, but well within the capability of our boat. Obviously at high water great care will be necessary to strictly follow channel markings - will do this trip soon!

Sat. 27th Sept. Packed away all odds and ends into the land Rover and recovered “High Jump” on to the trailer. No particular hurry. Left Suce sur Erdre about Noon. Uneventful tow to Ouistreham (Ferry port for Caen.)
After visit to the Supermarche. Drove to the West to the Seafront at Colleville. Just managing to squeeze the boat trailer through the pinch points on the road running along the top of the beach. Gave dog a good walk and then dined at a small Restaurant overlooking the beach. Probably the best meal we had during the whole holiday.
Fish and seafood  speciality restaurant. Friendly service, super food, good wine and reasonable prices. We started fairly early, but by the time we had been there about an hour appeared to be completely full. Other customers all appeared to be regulars.
Back to the Port, Checked in and completed formalities with dog. On board and straight to bed - exhausted.

Sun 28th Sept. Ferry berthed at Portsmouth 06.00. Home 07.15.am.


If this boring journal has been of interest to anyone and you have any questions about organizing your own trip on the French Waterways, then don’t hesitate to contact me.
Our next trip should be in the spring. Where to?
Still undecided.