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AUTUMN 2004.

A different travel plan for this trip. Since we were heading Eastwards to the French Ardenne we used a short Dover crossing and made the journey in one day.
This meant we had to leave home at 4am. A very dark morning. 8th Sept. 2004.

All apparently went well with the tow and we reached the Motorway Services about 40 miles from Dover, without incident. It was only after our coffee stop when checking around that I was horrified to find the Front near side trailer tyre absolutely shredded. Not just flat, but torn into shreds, only the outer tread surviving, completely detached from the walls. Mudguard was dented and damaged at front. Deduced that I must have clipped something with the mudguard on the narrow road between Home and Elstead, the first five miles of the journey. Peggy in fact thought she heard a bang at one stage during this stretch. Don’t know at what stage the damaged mudguard cut into the tyre, but I had driven up to 100 miles on three trailer wheels. The rig handled perfectly, no indication of fault. In daylight I would have seen the flat - shedding rubber - very quickly. Amazing, especially considering that remaining wheel was 100% overloaded.
Fortunately I carry a 2.1/2 tonne trolley jack in the back of the Land Rover when towing the boat. So did not take long to change the wheel and still arrived at Ferry port in time for our crossing.

Norfolk Lines Ferry, Dover to Dunkirk. This is primarily a freight service. No foot passengers, no coaches, therefore comfortable, roomy, and only 2 hours crossing. Most importantly cheap.
We launched at Sedan that evening. Arrived first at our intended destination of Pont a Bar, where guidebooks showed there to be a slipway. Long gone!
On a few miles to Sedan to the municipal campsite where there is an excellent slipway. Launched and got ourselves organised. Unfortunately the Eberspacher water heater would not fire up. Since returning home service engineer has found that water had entered the exhaust pipe - I wonder if this happened at the launching, it was rather a steep slipway, and the bow of the boat “hooked up” briefly on the trailer before floating off. Fortunately our calorifier gives loads of hot water when the engine is run, so for this trip we had to change our habits and shower after each days run. At other times manage with the kettle.

Finally after taking the dog for his pre bedtime walk, returned to the boat and found Refrigerator failed and several lights off. At eleven o clock at night - been up since three - with fridg. removed I am standing on my head to reach the wiring at the back of the cabinet. Main fuse holder had broken into pieces. Rewired to eliminate this fuse - everything is individually fused so still protected.
-And so to bed.

Thursday we spent at Sedan recovering. The coming weekend is the annual fair. This is a major event involving the whole town. Combined Agricultural show, fair, and major social event for the surrounding area. The town was in a complete turmoil of preparation with stalls and booths being erected on every square. The main showground was directly alongside the campsite where we were moored. During the day many travellers’ outfits drew into the campsite, but plenty of room.
One of the young men in charge of the campsite very helpfully arranged for our land Rover and trailer to be stored in his Mothers garden

Friday. Our friend arrived at ten o clock and we followed him a few Ks to his house. He had rather underestimated the size of the trailer, however managed to squeeze in under an apple tree. He drove us back to the boat. Before our departure we were handed a tele-controller for the Meuse locks by the campsite office..

Down river, six fully automatic locks, operated by our Zapper, to Charleville Mezieres. Moorings - do not turn right into the short tunnel leading to Ecluse de Montcy. Continue down the loop with town on the left hand side. Moorings as shown in guidebook are a duck infested stretch of old pontoons alongside the river. However half kilometre further on is found a huge new basin. Enter under a footbridge and there are several hundred pontoon berths and very few boats. Only one other visiting boat. Electricity and water available at each berth. This facility was completely free. The office nearby was secured for the winter and no other official appeared during our stay.
A ten-minute walk across a footbridge to the centre of town. Interesting old town. The Place Ducale, a vast square said to be modelled on the Place des Vosges in Paris (but with traffic) surrounded by 17th century buildings with colonnaded arcades at street level.
At a crossroads on the edge of town we saw in the distance lots of blue lights and then a large number of motor bikes, what appeared to be a bikers rally escorted by the Police. Later in the Place Ducale we found about fifty or more vintage motorcycles parked up. This was The Tour de France for Vintage Motor Cycles. This was the end of day 22. Two more stages to go. An interesting display. Many old British Bikes as well as all the Continentals mostly unknown to me. Even a very old Morgan three wheeler.
Sad shortage of restaurants on a Wednesday evening, our choice of a pizzeria was not successful.

Saturday 11th Sept.
Weather still perfect.
I made rather a mess of the first part of the days voyage. From the p de p. return down the loop of the river and then a sharp turn back on oneself into the fairway leading to the cut across the base of the loop with its tunnel. Being unsure where I was supposed to make this 180 deg turn I turned too early and missed the traffic lights then proceeded through the tunnel un invited. Arriving unexpected at the lock I received a good telling off from the Eclusier.

The Meuse has now left the plains and becomes dramatic and beautiful. Squeezed between high rocky wooded hills. Mostly deserted. Very few mooring places. Banks are sloping rock built sides, unsuitable for a small boat to moor.

High Jump is moored at the pontoon just abeam of the bow of the peniche, hidden by the clump of trees.

Monday about Lunchtime stopped at Fumay. A small town situated at the Southern end of the panhandle of French territory which protrudes into Belgium alongside the river. From here on to Givet the international border runs along the Western bank of the river. Another town set on a steep hill enclosed in a 180 deg loop of the river. Very confusing to walk around, difficult to know which way one is facing. Very busy N51 enters and leaves the edge of the town.
To Vireux Molhain for the night.

Tuesday 14th Sept.
Arrived at Givet about lunchtime.
This is the border town; shortly downstream from here the River enters Belgium.
Good pontoon moorings. Water and electricity laid on and no charge. The moorings are on the right bank just downstream of the old narrow bridge, like many, carrying traffic which could never have been imagined when it was built.
Some shops nearby but the main town is across the bridge on the left bank. The town turns its back on the river, but walk beyond the riverside main road and suddenly a picturesque, welcoming huddle of small streets and squares.
A large stone fortress on the left bank just upstream of the town does not seem to be available to visitors - at least we did not find a way in. I believe the Army are still in occupation.
We were visited here by Sister in law, en route in a roundabout way from Provence to Deauville. After some difficulty in finding hotel accommodation for them for the night we took a very agreeable meal at the restaurant facing the bridge on the town side.

Wed. 15th Sept.
After a little light shopping and a coffee in a very attractive bar/coffee shop in the square, continued downriver. Crossed imperceptibly into Belgium. At the first Belgium lock were charged the huge sum of 1.80 Euros for use of Belgian waters.
The river, still attractive becomes much more used as a holiday area. Lots of chalets and holiday homes.
Arrived at Dinant. Did not like the moorings in centre of town, alongside busy road. Moved back up river a few hundred yards to a quieter quay.
Interesting town, squeezed into the small space between river and cliffs. Dominated by The Citadel.
Next day took the cable car to the citadel. Totally organised for group tours with guide - being rebels we wandered around on our own, mostly against the flow of coachload sized groups of pensioners. Lots of disapproval from staff - which we of course did not understand! Plenty of information boards to read detailing the bloody history of the citadel, which is infinitely preferable to being treated like an idiot in four languages by a trained parrot.
Walked back down the steps to the town
Very large River Cruise Hotel Boat moored on bank opposite the town, bow and stern just visible behind the Church in photo below.

1.View across The Meuse at Dinant taken from the cable car.
2.Display inside The Citadel

Continued down river. Very few possibilities for mooring until arrival at Jambes .
Here a p de p. on the right bank, in a quiet position near a park, has an abundance of good pontoon moorings. Water and electricity available. Office all closed and shuttered so no charge.
Did not find any shops within walking distance.

Fri. 17th Sept.
Moved the short distance down river to Jambes which is on the opposite side of the river to Namur. Here found another p. de p. with plenty of empty mooring space.
Walked across the two bridges crossing the confluence of Meuse and Sambre into the City of Namur. Found all normal activity suspended as the town prepared for Walloon Fest which started that evening. Everywhere trestle tables and benches were being unloaded from lorries and erected. Hundreds of beer barrels being delivered and set up. Police roadblocks were in place to keep other traffic out of the centre.
After a walk around we made our escape back to the boat and continued on our way.

Turn left and start ascent of River Sambre. Very busy this afternoon, all large Euro size barges. About 1,500 tonnes I think, and all in a hurry to get to wherever it is they want to be for the weekend. Saw a couple of quick car unloading operations, pretty hairy, not the sort of thing our Health and Safety Inspectors would approve of.
However always plenty of room in the enormous locks for us.
Absolutely nowhere for a small boat to moor. Becoming a little desperate when we passed through the lock near Mornimont and found a sheltered spot with reasonable bank by turning back into the weir stream. We moored just astern of a fully loaded
barge which was in complete darkness and obviouously unmanned except for a terrifying Alsatian who took his duties extremely seriously. Around dusk one man walked from over the nearby lock and boarded the boat. Later in darkness we heard an engine start and the barge moved off upriver - a single handed voyage, unless the Alsatian had also been trained to cast off mooring ropes. Next day we saw the barge a couple of miles upriver, being discharged at the Solvay Plant.

Sat 18th Sept.
Walked to the Village of Mornimont. The N90 now by passes the village. Very quiet, featureless. After walking in the wrong direction for some time we eventually found a small Supermarket on the opposite side of the N90. Small but extremely well stocked. Excellent selection of fruit and veg.
No barge traffic today but all locks were operated without delay, just for us. Continued through several locks to Charleroi.
Stopped to eat lunch at a disused barge harbour, Chatalet. High Quaysides surrounded by abandoned heaps of coal. Quayside so black sludgy and disgusting that it was not possible to walk off the boat.
As we left the harbour a barge passed downstream - the only other boat we saw moving that day.

What a dismal aspect Charleroi presents to the boater. The river is channelled between high walls in a concrete canyon. No view at all of the town. It would have been possible to moor alongside a pedestrian walkway in a couple of places, but leaving the boat very exposed in a fast flowing current. Did not stop.
Above Charleroi Ecluse Marcinelle is surely unique, being situated in the centre of a steelworks. Very interesting, but waiting in the lock in the centre of dust, noise and sulphurous fumes Peggy thought she had died and gone to hell.
The Eclusier checked our papers and ascertained that we were continuing on up the Sambre and not along the Charleroi-Bruxelles canal.

After the junction the next lock, Monceau sur Sambre, was the last wide gauge power operated lock. Continued on as not having taken water for two days we needed a refill before night. However arriving at the first manual lock of Landelies, after considerable time searching for any sign of life found that it had closed at Seven, not half past as informed by previous eclusier. Now had great difficulty finding a mooring spot, shallow rocky river banks, and had to return 4Km.to site of some demolished industry near the previous lock. Strict water rationing in force on board

Sun. 19th Sept.
Passed through the first manually operated lock. It was not necessary to open the lift bridge at the lower end of the lock for our little boat. Found that around the corner from the lock was “The Yacht Club.” Moorings for an odd variety of boats, but with a water tap and a helpful Gentleman in attendance to guide us to the berth, unlock and arrange water hose. No charge, but we were pleased that he accepted a tip.
The river is now much more amenable to small boat cruising, but few boats around at
this time of year. Only two Km further on and we stopped at The Abbaye d’Aulne. Obviously a very busy tourist spot in season, but not crowded today, (Fee to enter the Abbey Ruins)

L,ancienne abbaye d,Aulnes.

To Thuin where pontoons close to town centre provided good overnight mooring. Interesting town rising up steeply from the river side. Two Town Centres - beside the river and high up in the old town.
Moored permanently close to the pontoons is a restaurant boat. Speciality Mussels. So we enjoyed a meal that evening despite the rather abrupt mannered waitress.

Mon 20th Sept.
The water tap at the pontoon mooring was not working and no one seemed to know who to contact to get this rectified - This is one of the problems frequently experienced when cruising “Out of Season”.
However just behind the Restaurant boat was moored an elderly converted barge, "The Community Boat." Two men were washing and scrubbing the superstructure and kindly allowed us to use their hose to top up our tank.
A few Km before the border a very convenient small quay with diesel pump was quite happy to fill my small tank and three cans with red diesel. The tank is allowed, but it is quite illegal of course to carry red diesel into France in cans.
At the first lock after re entering France we were issued with a very clever “Tele control” to operate the next 12 locks. This had a small screen which told us what was happening, when to enter the lock and when to leave. Of course it broke down later.
Overnight at Boussois before testing our new toy.

Wed. 22nd Sept.
Continuing on up the Sambre. Automatic control of locks dead easy until approaching about the seventh lock no response on screen of magic box - just a series of lines. From now on at each lock I clamber ashore and use emergency telephone, severely testing my limited ability in use of the French language. The lock is then operated by some mysterious hand, miles away, in central control station.
Lunch stop at Landrecies - we had passed through this town when towing from Dunkirk to Sedan but things look so much different from the water that we did not realise until after leaving. A filling station very handy to mooring, filled two cans of diesel. Brief walk around town.
This is where the River Sambre becomes the Canal de la Sambre a l,Oise. Not that the boater would notice any difference.
Night at Catillon s Sambre.

Thurs 23rd Sept.
Wet, wet, very wet morning. Last ascending lock to pass through and surprise, the zapper worked. Obviously some repair has been carried out to the communication system.
At Gard Etreux found very good pontoon moorings. Not wishing to set off down the Etreux flight of eight linked automatic locks in this inclement weather we settled here for the night.
The rain eased a little and we took a walk around the village. One Supermarket and a couple of bars. We took shelter in one for the space of a couple of beers, but the lunch menu did not look inviting. As usual in rural France, completely empty bar, until, at the stroke of twelve, customers flock in and rapidly fill the small dining room.
Afternoon the rain stopped and we took a walk down the towpath past the flight of eight locks to Etreux.

Fri 24th Sept.
To Vandencourt.
Here we saw our first boat for three days. A Belgian couple in a sturdy old Ostend Harbour Launch, similar to a Pilot Launch, definitely seaworthy although the original Dorman had been replaced recently with a smaller Perkins Diesel. A fortunate meeting as they informed us of various stoppages on The Canal des Ardennes. Decided we would head for The Somme, but then discovered that the Southern Section of The C de la Somme, which had been closed for a few weeks for repairs in the Spring, had not yet reopened. This meant that we would be continuing along the Cal lateral a l’Oise toPont l’Eveque and then North on Canal du Nord.

Vandencourt. A village strung out alongside a main road. Boulangerie and Bar with General store attached. As usual Friendly and helpful people, because we were English the Barman insisted on playing a Beatles tape. Finch much admired and made a fuss of.

Sat 25th Sept.
Night near lock 32. Hamegicourt

Sun. 26th Sept.
To Chauny. Privately run moorings, part of a boatyard. Large town with all facilities.

Mon 27th Sept.
Boat yard is securely locked at night. Unfortunately despite opening hours posted on the gate no one arrived until half past eight to open up. So Finch and I were left pacing around for half an hour waiting to get to the Boulangerie. Spent some time around town, various shopping. Found that although this is a large town there is only one Supermarket, and that is closed on Monday. Like most towns all business now at the big out of town centres.
To Pont l’Eveque, where we arrived early afternoon. A right angle turn under a narrow bridge leads into a small enclosed harbour. Grass on one side and the other a cobbled quay lined with a mixture of old houses. At the far end of the harbour a busy barge repair yard with dry dock.
We thought we had moored in a safe position but as we returned from an exploration of the village saw a Freycinet size peniche manoeuvring under the bridge towards the repair yard and our choice of spot on the grassy bank no longer appeared very sensible. Quickly shot across to the quay side.
No water tap.
From the boulangerie at the end of the quay the most fabulous, extravagant meringue I have ever tasted, filled with nuts, marzipan and who knows what.

Tues 28th Sept.
We left the little harbour at Pont L'eveque and started north on the Canal du Nord.
This is a new canal, completed in 1965. Sized to be suitable for two Freycinet Peniches fixed in line ahead. 77M long, with engine and control station at the stern of the second barge. Carrying capacity about 700 Tonnes. So a total loaded displacement in the order of 900 Tonnes. This is the most common unit seen, although there are a few single Peniches which makes opportunity for small boats to use locks.
We started of through the first lock in company with a single peniche and VNF survey launch, “Picardie.” on his way to Peronne. Driver, single handed, was very helpful, also insisted in showing us all over his boat. A bank of depth sounders and a GPS system which he claimed gave his position with an accuracy of 3cm. He himself had found 138 sunken cars in various canals. He was much faster than us, so we lost him after the second lock as he shot ahead and we continued with the single peniche.
This canal has sloping sides, either stone or tarmac covered. Absolutely no mooring possibilities.
After the Souterrain de Panneterie, 1,058 M long, one way, controlled by traffic lights, we saw a concrete quay on the right bank and stopped for a late lunch. We moored as far as possible from the tunnel portal (262 yards in fact - I later stepped it out) between two bollards.
Three barges passed without problem while we dined, each a double unit 77M long.
We had finished lunch when we heard a most enormous roaring engine noise from inside the tunnel. In due course a barge emerged, a double unit, fully loaded. After clearing the tunnel mouth it started to swing slowly to the right, towards our quay. Must be intending to moor on this quay we thought - plenty of space. Continued swinging, speed does not seem to be lessening - we are getting nervous.
Bang!!. Huge crash as the bow of leading barge hits the concrete quay.
This is obviously not right - we spring into action.
Barge continues at more or less the same speed, sliding along the edge of the concrete quay. Peggy has our engine started and in gear, I have the stern rope off.
Barge now 5 to 10 M distant. Jump!!
Peggy with little dog in her arms, we both jump on to the quay. At this point we see the name writ large on the bow of the barge. APOCALYPSE.
900 tonnes of Barge v 4 Tonnes of Sea Otter, In my mind I expected absolute destruction. However our stern plaited rope button fender seems to have saved us. When the barge struck, the bow mooring cleat with rope attached was torn from our aluminium deck and our boat sprang ahead as if from a catapult. Engine running. Stupidly I ran and jumped. Just got a footing and scrambled on board. Very lucky I wasn't "steak hache" between Peniche and concrete quay. Full throttle and our little boat pulled away to the left and clear.

One man appeared on deck of the Peniche, clad only in his mini underpants. "A problem? A Problem?" he said to Peggy with a shrug worthy of any Parisien..
Another man in the wheelhouse would not raise his eyes and look in her direction - by this time I was away on the opposite side of the canal struggling with the jammed rudder.
Barge did not stop.

We were so lucky. Damage limited to forward mooring cleat torn out, bent rudder stock and stern seal displaced thus letting some water enter when engine running. We reported the incident immediately by telephone to VNF office at Peronne. Girl on phone gave me number of Gendarmerie responsible for tunnel area and said I should phone them, but I was unable to make contact.
After we had stopped shaking and thoroughly checked over the boat we continued 8Km. to the next lock at Languevoisin Here we told our story to the Eclusier. She confirmed her record of the passage of the barge Apocalypse and said that we should report the incident to the VNF Office at Peronne.
We moored up for the night close to several pairs of barges, making sure that we chatted to the nearest skipper to ensure that he knew where we were and had no problem with our position. Spent a nervous night, fully expecting to be mown down before dawn when the first barges came towards us from the lock. I was up well before this time and had our tunnel light on so no one could miss our position.
Understandably nervous - but of course we were completely safe and this incident has not put us off returning to The French Canals as soon as possible.
Short of water, but survived by carrying a couple of 5L cans from a tap near to the lock.

Wed. 29th Sept.
Moved on 20 Km to Peronne. Fortunately only two locks to negotiate, as steering was extremely difficult, requiring all my strength to move the rudder.
Pontoon moorings are found up a rather unattractive backwater - weed covered and some oil pollution. Appeared at first to be no space, filled with boats laid up for the winter. However we fitted exactly between two local cruisers. Electricity available and water.
A slipway at the end of the branch. Rather worrying, looks quite shallow and flattens out to a muddy bottom. Poked about a bit with a stick but learned little.
In the afternoon made enquiries about travelling back to Sedan, and arranged rail tickets and Taxi for next morning. Also found a Vet and arranged treatment for Finch on Friday Morning. (Must be done within 24/48 Hour period of boarding Ferry.)
Also visited the VNF Office to enquire about using the slipway. However not their responsibility. Apparently just use it as required.
Once again discussed our running down. Senior Manager very concerned - took notes.
The Port de Plaiscance is part of the Municipal caravan site. When the Office opened in the evening arranged to stay, two nights as a boat and one night as a caravan. Very expensive - the most expensive moorings we have found in France. More expensive than the Paris Arsenal.
Evening meal in nearby small hotel.

Thurs 30th Sept.
Taxi from the camp site at 08.00hrs. to Railway Station at St. Quentin. Once again Finch travelled as “Petit animal dans conteneur” at a cost of 5 Euros. First train to Reims, where we had two hours to look round the town. Very impressed with town centre and would like to return. Next change at Charleville Mezieres, then a short ride to Sedan where we were kindly met by The Lady who had provided a temporary home for our Land Rover.
Managed to extricate the trailer from under the apple tree and set off happily driving along the left hand side of the road head on towards a bemused eldely local gentleman who up until that moment had been innocently driving his elderly car in the opposite direction.

Fri 1st Oct.
Tick and Worm treatment for Finch at Vets. Obtained certificate.
Packed and prepared boat and after lunch recovered on to trailer. The slipway was just deep enough and although rather flat the hand winch easily pulled the boat right forward into position.
Spent the night on board parked in the caravan park.

Sat 2nd. Oct.
Drove to Dunkirk. Ferry to Dover Gusty weather. Slight delay leaving Dunkirk waiting for one of my Old Russian OBO Vessels to enter port. Then berthing at Dover delayed by enormous squall of wind.
Safely home.

I finish on a very sad note. This was Finch’s last trip on the boat. Trips he so obviously thoroughly enjoyed, The fuss and attention from everybody he met, the walks and above all living in a confined space with us and being with us all day.
He had one more trip to France. To Provence in November.
Despite his heart problem he remained very active, happy and bright, right up until the morning of 15th December, when he just stopped, Lay down and two hours later peacefully died.
We miss him terribly.