Untitled Page

HIGH JUMP ACROSS THE MIDI.

This is a record of a boating venture written for the interest of other boaters. Maybe a reader will find some small piece of information which will be useful if planning a similar trip. It is definitely not intended to repeat the vast amount of information available in many excellent tourist guides and for this reason may seem to neglect what might be thought to be major high spots of the areas passed through.

Our boat ia a 23ft. Aluminium Hull, trailable, Sea Otter with a 13.5h.p. Beta Engine. We have Webasto diesel fired hot air heating and Eberspacher diesel fired hot water unit.

Fri. 27th April 2001.
Boarded the 22.45hrs P&O Ferry from Portsmouth to Cherbourg. Sailing was about ¾ Hr late, resulting in some loss of sleeping time. Despite Force 4 or 5 sea the crossing was smooth and comfortable. Stabiliser system on the “Pride of Cherbourg” is excellent.

Sat. 28th April 2001.
On the road by 07.30 French time. Raining. Took the minor road Via St Lo to Avranches and enjoyed the long straight country roads and small towns. Possibly faster to join the Autoroute at Caen but being Saturday morning the roads were very quiet and we made good progress.
About 17.00 hrs pulled off the A10, 8Km to Gemozac. Our Michelin Camping Guide showed that the Camping Municipal opens in April however after drawing through the open gates on to a carefully selected position, avoiding the well soaked turf we were told the we could not stay - does not open until June. However just outside, adjacent to the Sports Centre is a water tap with hose connection and sanitary disposal point. We joined three Caravans in the large parking area and spent a quiet and comfortable night. I guess the other residents were “Travellers” but the area was clean and tidy and they were friendly and helpful. “Did we need water containers”, etc. Had a few interested spectators, curious about the boat parked in their town square.
The little Honda Generator enabled us to recharge batteries, keep the fridge. running and use all normal facilities. At first the charger failed to work - gloom and despondency - but in the continuing rain I tracked it down to a connection which had fallen out during the journey. Since I fitted the new charger I can only blame myself for not doing it correctly.
This new automatic charger is a boon. The original unit fitted was simply a 12V transformer/rectifier. The new electronic unit gives an useful initial rapid charge when generator or shore power is connected, then safely brings voltage to maximum, thereafter can be left connected indefinitely without damage to batteries but maintaining them in peak condition thus resulting in an extended period of useful power.

Sun. 29th April 2001
On our way again by 09.30. An easy drive with very few trucks on the road. Arrived at the small village of Fontet just after 13.00 hrs. The Halte Nautique is well signposted and easy to find. We had made no prior arrangements and found the vehicle access gates closed and locked, however very soon our friends from Duras drove up. Peter telephoned the number displayed on the gate and within 10 minutes a gentleman arrived to unlock and let us in.
We asked him about safe storage for the Land Rover and Trailer and he said that Monsieur Bordesoule would come to see us later, but this afternoon he was at The Loto.
After launching we all enjoyed a picnic in the continuing rain and then a short demonstration cruise along the canal.

A good slipway here with easy approach, smooth surface and ample depth of water. Quite steep and a little green and greasy. The Land Rover had no problems but might be difficult for a car.
The site appears to be an old gravel pit recently turned into a small Marina and camp site. Very peaceful. Plenty of space.
We moved across to the far side of the basin for the night. About 7pm our original Gentleman contact came trudging all the way round to tell us that Monsieur Bordesoule would see us in the morning.

Mon. 30th April 2001.
A wet night and continuing wet morning. Moved across to the water point and generally made ready for the off.
Monsieur Bordesoule arrived at 09.30 on his tractor. After a cheery discussion we were escorted to the house of Monsieur Le Maire by three of the local Hells Angels (Reformed Chapter) who seemed to be holidaying on one of the rather tired moored boats. I did hope for a ride on one of the Five Harley Davidsons parked nearby, but they led the way in their Range Rover.
Monsieur Le Maire, in regulation farmers boiler suit, welcomed us and organised parking of Land Rover and trailer in one of his Tobacco drying sheds which will not be needed until August when the harvest starts. We were given a tour of the farm. Evidently 40 years ago there were over 100 Tobacco growers in this area. Now only he and his family persevere.
Monsieur Le Maire refused to accept any payment up front - “wait until you return.”
From the time of our arrival in this village, unknown strangers, we received the utmost courtesy and assistance, use of facilities, and not a penny changed hands.

In view of the weather and tomorrows closure of all locks we decided not to travel the few Kilometres to the Western end of the Canal Lateral a la Garonne at Castets, instead turned Eastwards.
Total first days run - One lock and 8Km. Enough to get a good soaking. I don’t previously remember three days of persistent, unrelenting, non stop rain.

The short run did indicate that my fitting of acoustic insulation under the stern deck and at engine space forward bulkhead, has been worthwhile. Much subdued and less intrusive sound at steering position but the most improvement is inside cabin. The latter particularly so when running the engine out of gear solely to charge batteries.

The reduction in pitch of propeller has also had effect. I had it pressed down to 8 inches.
Requires much more experiment but maximum engine rpm has increased to 2700 (still well short of design 3400)

Found a good mooring near to another excellent slipway at Meilhan sur Garonne. Another Halte Nautique provided by the local Syndicate d’Initiative. Supposed to be payment for water and electricity but at this time of year no one bothers. Nearby campsite and restaurant firmly closed. The site is between canal and River Garonne which loops closely by for a short distance. The river was running fast, obviously very high, muddy and bearing much debris. We are certainly not going to be able to cross to The Lot and even The Baize looks doubtful.

Made a couple of forays through the rain up the hill to the village. Only the Boulangerie open. A nice looking restaurant in a wonderful position on a renovated terrace overlooking canal and river is closed, with a “Not opening in the foreseeable future” look about it.

Dined on board. Good stuff Marks and Spencer’s tins!

Tues. 1st May 2001.
May Day. A Public Holiday. All canal locks closed.
At last the skies cleared and pleasant sunshine for the day, but still not too warm. A few small maintenance jobs in the morning then up the hill to Meilhan for much needed supplies. Found the small supermarket open and also the Charcuterie. However at the Boulangerie the small sign saying Ouvert 08.00 -13.00 1st Mai was now superseded by another saying roughly -“Closed, Run out of Bread.”

After lunch walked a circuit of about 9 miles. Have been unable to find Series Verte maps for this area so our 1cm:2km Michelins must serve for walks. Up on to the plateau past vineyards and apple orchards, back along the rich flat lands between canal and river dotted with disused black tobacco drying barns. Distinctive French farmyard buildings, each farm with its corn crib and in many places the new plastic or glass houses for tomatoes and other intensive crops.
Water lying in all the fields, ditches full and every stream a brown raging torrent.

Last May Day we picked Lily of the Valley in a wood in Burgundy. This year Peggy was presented with a bouquet by the Patron of the “Bar de Amis des Peniches”

Wed. 2nd May 2001
Now we are on our way. 39 Km and 7 Locks to Buzet sur Baise.
Brief stop at Fourques -dismal. No facilities despite what guide books say.
Topped up with Gasoil from Crown Blue Line at Mas D,Agenais. Friendly and helpful.
Noticed while in their office that their charge for Hirers to park a car is F150 per week in yard and F240 per week under cover. (This is their own clients and for car only - not including trailer which we would need.)

The locks so far encountered are all fully automatic, easy to use and smooth in operation.
Occasionally fail and the eclusier has to be called, as at Berry, when a converted Peniche ahead of us was delayed for 20 minutes when the top gates failed to open.

There is a public slipway here at Buzet, but very steep and I would not recommend attempting to use it.

Thurs. 3rd May 2001.
A surprise visit today from Sister in Law, en route from Provence to Deauville - a major diversion entailed to pass through Lot et Garonne. Shopping in Buzet. Chauffeured to a the small hilltop village of Maurignac for an excellent lunch in a delightful creperie. Steak with taste, delicious sauté potatoes and salad - that is for me of course. The three vegetarians expressed satisfaction with their salads.
A demonstration cruise back along the canal, but spent the second night in Buzet.
There is no water point working at the Halte Nautique, therefore necessary to cruise along to the Aquetaine Hire base to fill up. Discovered that The Baise would be open next morning.

Fri. 4th May 2001
At about 09.30 passed down through the double lock on to River Baise. Water level has risen overnight from 0.4M above Datum to 0.45M. (Navigation is stopped when level reaches 0.5M)
The Eclusier at Buzet handed us our magnetic card to control the Baise locks.
The current was flowing faster than I expected. We made Vianne by 11.30 and tied up below the lock. With the river being in flood there is only one safe berth here, already occupied by two hire boats. We tied up alongside them while we visited the village for bread etc.
Approached from the river the village is a complete surprise, a perfect medieval fortified village with four gate towers. No outlook at all on to the river.

We tied up above the lock while we lunched. During the hour we stopped for lunch the river rose about two inches. We continued on upstream but before arriving at Lavardac passed through a narrow part of the river where our actual headway was reduced to a slow crawl by the fast flowing stream. Rain had also restarted.
Not wishing to be trapped on the Baise for a lengthy enforced stay we decided to abandon this part of the expedition, turned carefully in a slightly quieter stretch of river and headed back downstream.

The 9Km return to Buzet was accomplished safely in little more than half an hour.
Unfortunately no possibility of a trip to the lower Lot in the near future. Must first cross the Garonne which is still raging. Having seen a little of the Baise we will return one day to cruise these two rivers. Could probably fit in the detached section of Lot as part of the same trip.

Cruised on Eastward to Serignac.

Sat. 5th May 2001.
Found a very nice Logis with Restaurant at Serignac. Restaurant closed on Saturday evening!!!!
Shopping adequate with extra stars for the Spar which stocks Cremant de Bourgogne.
The water tap at the Halte Nautique is push on type with oval spigot and just outside our hose reach. Our little trailed boat has rather small fresh water capacity so we do need to fill up each day. Accomplished with difficulty. Me holding down tap with one hand and improvised connection with other and Peggy sitting on gunwale aiming the feeble water jet at the tank filler.
Mad English. This afternoon picnicked in cold and rain sheltering under large sunshade with our friends from Duras. Excellent food. Retreated to warmth of boat for drinks before they departed to a Rugby match in which sons from two families were participating.

Sun. 6th May 2001.
Moved on to Agen. Passed over the magnificent stone built aqueduct taking the canal over the Garonne and into Agen. The Halte Nautique is close by the railway station in an unattractive position. A little further on Locoboat Hire Base useful for water, but we preferred to moor opposite against a grassy bank and a quiet side road.
Spent the afternoon walking around Agen and took a passable evening meal in a nearby Logis.

Mon. 7th May 2001.
This canal is so different to Burgundy in its lack of any personal involvement. The Locks are nearly all automated so we seldom see and get to talk to an Eclusier. The Eclusier's cottages are mostly empty so there is none of the pride in keeping an attractive garden and lock side environment that so struck us in Burgundy.
Few canal side villages and these not particularly attractive.

I am becoming more and more fed up and frustrated with this Engine/Power problem.
Its incredible that Sea Otter, Beta and Sillette Sonic have all been unable to give any useful advice. With the propeller now reduced to 8 inch pitch the engine will achieve 2700 rpm but overheats after ten minutes. I have not yet been able to check our speed but we are still not able to keep up with hire boats between locks.

Got a little annoyed today when two hire boats closed the lock gates when we were within 20M of following them in. Expressed my feelings with our new expensive chrome plated twin tone horns. Must be tolerant and make allowances, it was obvious from the way they were handling their boats that they were totally incompetent and probably frightened to move up to the front of the lock.

Tues. 8th May 2001.
Another public holiday. VE Day. However locks open as normal.
Arrived at Moissac. Pleasant town but largely shut down for the holiday. Enjoyed an excellent lunch at “Grill Lou”. A small Restaurant Off the main square where all cooking is done over a wood fire. Cold day so we did not mind being seated near the cooking fire. Only 240F total including excellent Gambas for Peggy, wine and a beer.
So far have passed through only one manned manual lock, but from now on locks are manned.

Wed. 9th May 2001.
Set off at 09.00. The Eclusier in charge of the first three locks, showing of his English, insisted that we should use two mooring ropes while in the lock. Unmanageable on a small boat in high locks. This is not a fibre glass craft skimming on top of the water. Although small is considerably influenced by surging currents within the lock, the safest way to hold it steady is with the single centre rope and engine power. We compromised by using one rope from bow returned to stern but as soon as we were away from his little kingdom returned to normal.
No comment from any subsequent Eclusier. Indeed this is the first such instruction received in passing about 700 locks in France.
Nice sunshine today but still not very warm.
Stopped at Castelsarrasin for lunch. Easy walking distance to a good shopping town with newly renovated square. Also two trips to a garage about 1/2Km from the canal basin for diesel. Those two 10L cans do get heavy. If I continue to get older I may have to invest in a fold up shopping trolley.
On to Montech, the site of the first water slope built in 1974. Can not fathom the logic behind this white elephant. Barge traffic was well in decline when it was built and of all the locks on the system what is the benefit in saving 45mins. In negotiating these five. Must be hugely costly to operate, the carriage is propelled by two 1,000 hp diesel engines. However I would like to see it operate, and take a closer look to see how the seal is made between moving “Masque” or water pusher, and the concrete walls of the trough.
(Later when reading McKnight on the subject of the Beziers Water Slope I realised that when faced with upgrading a multi chamber staircase to Freycinet standard it was probably simpler and cheaper to by pass the flight with a new water slope, with the added benefit of avoiding destruction of original historic structures.)

Quiet, well maintained, Halte Nautique. We are the only boat here tonight except for a semi derelict mast less sailboat - I wonder if he has paid his 30F per night mooring fee or VNF licence.
This is actually the first time this trip that we have paid for overnight mooring - no complaint, good value. We have paid four times for water. Between 10 and 15F which is a bit steep for our small tank.

Thur 10th May. 2001
Moored up mid afternoon at Saint Jory to sort out a problem with the Webasto Air Heater. I had managed to get water into the exhaust outlet when hosing the boat side. Poetic justice, since it is strictly forbidden to use the potable water taps to wash a boat.
No likely mooring between here and Toulouse so we stayed the night.
Now this is an example of what makes boat travel special. Touring by car one would never see this poor little village. A residue from better times, mean little houses on worn out streets, set between the railway marshalling yard and the canal. A horsemeat butcher, bar, Boulangerie AND a Restaurant. Inside a surprisingly large and tastefully furnished room. Well patronised, Food good at moderate price - but what made the place really fascinating was the clientele. Convinced we had stumbled across an underworld hangout we spent ages trying to fit backgrounds to the various groups.
The centre of attention and friend of the Chef/Owner had the appearance of either a Boxer, Bouncer or paratrooper. The other tables were occupied by groups, all chain smoking non stop and giving the appearance of having much more money than could be decent in such an area.
We will never know!

Fri. 11th May 2001.
To Toulouse.
We entered the basin of the Port de l’Embouchure at midday and the sun came out the air warmed up and for the period of our stay in Toulouse the weather was perfect. How enormously the weather affects our impressions and memories of a place.
After lunch entered the Canal Du Midi and moved up to Port St Saveur.
The second and third locks are extremely deep the result of a double staircase being combined into one. Fully power operated by an Eclusier but the depth and new mooring arrangement took us by surprise. Necessary to both stay on board when entering the lock and use the vertical inset pole. Third lock has floating bollards.
The oval shaped lock chamber does not cause any particular difficulty.
Port St Saveur has new floating pontoon moorings with water laid on but the area is still being developed and offices etc are unfinished and unoccupied with apparently no one in attendance. We used a pleasant outside mooring at no cost.
A short walk to the city centre. All necessary shops nearby.

Sat. 12th May 2001.
Left Toulouse after lunch.
Moored near Donneville. A few houses and two shops on the N113, also a Motel with Restaurant which looked extremely unatractive.
Spent some time watching a large mammal swimming rapidly back and fro across the canal carrying large clumps of reeds in its mouth. We have started seeing the large dead rodents floating in the canal which my regular readers will recall from last years venture on the Lateral a la Loire. About the size of a large cat. I wonder what they are?
(I was later told that these are indeed Coypu - and that they are enemy No 1 On the Midi due to the damage they do to the banks.)
The towpath for many miles after Toulouse is smooth tarmac and is heavily used by Cyclists, roller blades, joggers and a few intrepid walkers.

Sun. 13th May 2001.
Delayed almost two hours this afternoon by an Eclusier who seemed to want to marshal all the boats in his section into one group - one boat then stopped without informing him so the remaining two were left waiting.
Moored just below Ecluse No 14. Renneville. Walked up the hill about 1Km to the village of Renneville. One of those extremely puzzling small French places. A few small poor looking houses with an over large brick built church. Smart modern Mairie with flags flying. Well tended war memorial in shady square with early field mortars each side. The whole place spotlessly clean, swept, clipped, and mown. Every little alleyway with a new street name sign. New decorative pavements and tarmac roads. All new plentiful street lights in the shape of large hanging lanterns. Obviously a large sum of money has been spent recently in smartening up the place and yet nowhere to spend a single centime. (Inaccurate - there was a nice new telephone box)
Signs at the village entrance pronounced this a “Village Fleurie” so I presume that a large part of the expenditure was from my pocket, by way of Brussels. I understand Rural Regeneration but I can not understand why such a sum should be spent on prettifying a place which never in the next hundred years is going to get any return from tourism.

Rural France is emptying out and decaying visibly before our eyes. Even the illegal immigrants are not interested, they are all in the cities. Houses stand empty. Businesses are closed with no sign of opening before the tourist season. Shops become fewer and there are few people to be seen who have not arrived at middle age. There is little stock in the fields and “Set Aside” the last gasp of a failed policy, gives a sad and unkempt view to anyone with a feeling for the countryside.

Mon. 14th May 2001.
Passed over the summit level.
Before reaching the last uphill lock (Ocean) stopped at Port Lauragais. This is a combined Halt Nautique and Autoroute Service Area. Now French Autoroutes do not carry anything like the traffic that our own motorways do and it is not realistic to compare the French Aires de Repose to our own horrors. However this site is a good example of the creative thinking which we would do well to emulate.
Very large site. Lots of pleasant picnic and walking areas. Pleasantly landscaped, clean and well tended. Useful for us to fill diesel cans.
Well set up exhibition hall with a permanent exhibition on Pierre Paul Riquet, the constructor of the canal. (Rather unimaginative and disappointing exhibition.) also another hall with an exhibition on the History and Legend of Rugby, which we did not visit.
After lunch passed through Ocean Lock on to the summit pound. Spent some time walking to the obelisk set on a high point nearby with a view towards the Black Mountains where Riquet's original system of reservoirs since supplemented) gather water to feed the canal. The area is set out as a pleasant park with signposted walks. Viewed the “Parting of the waters” and later posed the boat to be photographed at this thought provoking spot.
Moored at La Segala where we found one of those insular little English communities which are found at various places throughout France where there is a water tap to be hogged and free electricity courtesy of the local Chamber of Commerce.
Took a much longer than planned walk to Labastide D’Anjou which is only 20 mins away, but mistakenly tried to return via the next lock and ended up on the wrong side of the canal amongst an impassable thicket - major detour.
Moved the boat just out of sight around the corner and returned to Labastide D,Anjou for evening meal at Le Grilladou.
Food is cooked on a fire of Vine Roots, which the proprietor seemed to have enormous difficulty getting to burn. Very good food, very good value, charming people, but don’t be in a hurry. (Which we were not) I sampled cassoulette, a local dish much advertised in all the shops and restaurants. It consists of a large earthenware bowl of haricot beans with a few added parts of duck and pig which has been cooked for many hours until nearly solid.
We suggest avoiding the Gothic horrors just up the road at Hostellerie Etienne.
Fortunately were given a lift back to the boat by a customer from the bar and so just avoided being caught in a heavy thunderstorm.

Tues. 15th May 2001.
We met up numerous times with a charming pair of French Gentlemen, well past the first flush of old age, in a small seagoing yacht on passage from La Rochelle to Toulon. Their draft was 1.4. The Canal du Midi is declared as having depth of 1.5M, however they were frequently having problems getting their boat alongside and sometimes touching bottom in the waterway.
Also many of the bridges are very small. Anyone with a large cruiser or barge should check carefully before attempting this route.

Arrived Castelnaudary noon.
The 7 Hectare Grand Basin, created as a reservoir to supply the quadruple staircase of St Roche, is magnificent. Crown Blue Line have a base at one side, otherwise empty of boats when we were there.

A town in severe decline. A few shops and restaurants in the centre otherwise mostly closed up, businesses for sale or abandoned. Small crowded immigrant area.

Wed. 16th May 2001.
Moored near Pezens and walked about 2Km to village. Unpleasant narrow road with much traffic. The village is a miserable place on the N113 with two shops and a bar with outside tables on the roads edge.

Thur. 17th May 2001.
Rash move. Donned shorts this morning which guaranteed that the weather immediately returned to winter. Dammed chilly walking round the ramparts of Carcassone old city.

Carcassone is a paying port. Relatively expensive - Mooring 50F per night, plus 12F per person, plus 12F Water and Electricity. (I tried the electricity supply but it was not working)
The busy efficient official in charge is the first ever not to think that it is a joke when I address him as “Monsier Le Capitan du Port”
The ancient city with its famous double ramparts is about 30 mins. walk from the port. Obviously a visit not to be missed. First entering the main gate is very reminiscent of Mont St Michael, a narrow street packed with snack bars and shops selling tourist tat, however I do think prices here are more reasonable. We bought presents for grandchildren and had a nice cup of tea and cake in a salon de the.
Good evening meal in a Hotel Brasserie very close to the port. Assiete de Fruit de Mere good value but not completely fresh, appeared to have been made up and then kept in the fridge.

Fri. 18th May. 2001.
Petit Dejeuner at a café near the port then shopping. Strange, no Alimentation or Epicerie in Carcassone town and not a Charcuterie to be found. Monoprix however has a good food department. Daily Telegraph available at newsagent - Happy.
Before leaving Carcassone changed engine Alternator/Water Pump drive belt. Very worn and thin, would not have lasted much longer. Has run for 88hrs. It is amazing that boat equipment suppliers can get away with supplying inadequate goods which would not survive in a mass market such as the Auto world.

Sat. 19th May 2001.
This part of the canal is particularly winding with many tight bends which must test a full size Peniche severely, however unfortunately becomes tedious due to lack of view of surrounding countryside or the distant hills. The canal is constructed with substantial earth banks at a distance of 5M from the waters edge, which block the outlook.

Hire cruisers now becoming plentiful. This is change over day so lots of fun with new hirers. The hire boats in this area seem to all be of Fibre Glass construction and well supplied with fenders, so if we do get bashed in a lock no damage is done.
One positive aspect of this extra traffic is that we actually suffer less delays waiting for locks. Since the summit every lock has its own dedicated Eclusier and no one asks when we intend to stop, start, or pause for shopping - the locks simply operate when a boat arrives.

Sun. 20th May 2001.
An unwelcome feature of this area is the sterility of the villages bordering the canal.
In the late Seventies McKnight described the attractions of beautiful timeless villages where supplies could be purchased. Argens-Minervois, Roubia, Paraza, Ventenac d’Aude. Now clean, empty, shuttered and not even a boulangerie in most villages.
The canal is one of the major tourist attractions of France, recognised by UNESCO, yet there are not even enough locals to provide restaurants and basic shops.
Nowhere is there any attempt to cash in on the tourist trade. Even the hire boats are mostly British owned and managed.
Quite correct maybe. The picturesque village dwellings are after all nothing more than airless slums which in Britain were demolished many years ago. Progress in agriculture has eliminated much of the labour intensive, backbreaking, demeaning toil and a new generation of well educated youngsters are seeking a better life elsewhere.

The Bumper boats are out in force now. The season must be well underway. Very few Hotel boats compared to Burgundy, and all a bit run down and seedy.

Turned on to the Embranchment to Narbonne and The Mediterranean. Weather immediately warming up - feels like the South at last.
First lock is manned and then the next five self operated by entering a code number into a box set on a landing about 100M before the lock.
Moorings at Salleles D’Aude turned out to be on a dusty roadside, very unatractive. Carried on past the interesting Aude crossing and moored on a quite stretch of bank.

Mon. 21st May 2001.
We are eleven Kilometres from the Mediterranean, early evening in late May and are sitting inside the cabin with the heating on!
Day started with rain. We waited until it dried up and set off at 10.30. arrived in Narbonne at lunchtime. Pleasant warm afternoon.

Passing the launching slipway below Ecluse Gua, noticed that it was obstructed by a large heavy boat launching trolley which appeared to have been there for some time. There is no slipway below Ecluse Narbonne as shown in the Guide Vagnon.
So far on the Canal du Midi I have seen very few slipways (if any) This is in contrast to the L.a la Garonne which had many good slipways.

Large number of dropouts, weirdo’s, druggies in Narbonne, particularly around the canal banks. Noticeably strong Police presence. Those of you who do your boating in England will be used to this, but we found it unsettling and moved on.

The water at the Port of Narbonne was very smelly. Also the stretch of canal below Narbonne was unpleasantly black and evil looking with smelly areas. Do not know why this should be since above Narbonne there was a strong current flowing down the canal.

Now tied up to a windswept umbrella pine in a vast emptiness. Pelicans flying overhead to land at the edge of the nearby Etang. (If a swan is like Concord these are Sunderland Flying Boats) Sound of cow bells from the inland side - a herd of black cattle similar to Spanish fighting bulls. All ages from young calves to a watchful old bull. Now the frogs chorus has started up.

Tues. 22nd May 2001.
In the morning cruised the final few miles to Port Nouvelle on the Mediterranean coast. The canal shares a narrow spit of land with the railway, with salt water etangs on either side. The last lock is a fall of 0.8M to sea level. We passed the scruffy Port Fluvial with high concrete walls and turned down through the approach to the sea, past sea going ships loading grain - but turned back before the final approach to the entrance piers. Tied up at a vacant floating pontoon in the yacht harbour where our little canal boat looked completely incongruous. However it was not until 5.30 pm just as we were leaving that an official came to tell us that we should not be there, these berths are all reserved and we had no right to his water. Hard luck - by that time our water tank was filled and we had also made two trips with our cans to a nearby garage for Gasoil.

We walked to the beach, following the quayside to the entrance groyne. Large beach, few people. Sea front restaurants etc mostly closed but we partook of a pleasant and good value lunch. A walk along the beach and paddle in the Med.
The area behind the front is a huge dismal development of tiny holiday homes, waiting for the people who never came.
Back in the town area near the port did necessary shopping, Daily Telegraph, half a kilo of beautiful tasty prawns, and a dozen fresh oysters for an unbelievable 21F. I love oysters but have always had them served up ready to eat. Never thought about the opening up process. However there is nothing a marine Engineer can not do - after the first couple of experiments got the hang of it and the oysters were greatly enjoyed.

Saw only three other boats moving today on the Canal de la Robine.
Moored for the night in an open stretch near the salt water etangs. For the first time this trip lots of mosquitoes and gnats. Our insect screens 100% effective and spent a quiet night.
This boat is built with caravan type side windows. Each unit consists of double glazed, slide opening perspex windows and built in roller blind and insect screen. We have found these to be convenient and effective. So far completely weather proof.

Also re windows - during this last winter we had the original front doors and windows replaced. The originals were of rather flimsy wooden construction with an external bar which padlocked across the front and were fitted with ordinary 4mm glass. The new arrangement of UPVC Double Glazed doors and side windows was fitted by Osset Industrial Projects Ltd. The small profile UPVC could only be supplied with wood effect on one side, but the interior white is very slim and does not detract from appearance.
This has eliminated the large amount of condensation which we previously experienced in this area and of course security and safety is improved.
The only areas where we now get condensation is around skylight metal frame and under deckhead in strips where lining is attached directly to transverse stiffeners.

Wed. 23rd May 2001.
Returned on the Canal de la Robine past Narbonne. Stopped for lunch, water and shopping in Narbonne.
Surly and deliberately slow Eclusier at Ecluse Gua.

Can someone explain - There can not be more than a dozen boats moving on this entire 37Km of canal. We moor on an empty straight stretch about 2K long. Within an hour a hire boat comes along and moors 15Metres astern of us!
Truly Man is gregarious by nature!

Thurs. 24th May 2001.
Another public holiday. Not for Peggy,s birthday and certainly not for Empire Day. Thursday - maybe ascension day.
Shopping at Salleles d’Aude de trois boulangeries. The few small shops are close to the lower lock in the flight of 5 automatic and one manned lock which lead back on to the Canal du Midi.
A useful garage (Fuel Supply) in the town centre.

While proceeding upwards through the automatic locks an apparent failure occurred. Only red lights and no action - until we realised that even automatic locks stop for lunch from 12.30 to 13.30hrs.

Back on the Canal du Midi moored up at 3pm at Argeliers Bridge close to the Restaurant “Au Chat qui Peche” Attractive rural position. Seedy outside but renovated dining room and bar. This is one of the very few Restaurants close to the canal still in business.
Warm enough to eat our evening meal sitting outside although a little windy and retreated to the bar for coffee. Moderately good food. Simple a la carte menu, with one Menu a 85 Francs hidden at the bottom of the menu obviously just to satisfy form, Chile con carne the only main dish,. A group of French men we talked to who had partaken of Le Menu were scathing about the quality.

There is water at this quay. The tap is missing from the stand pipe. Requires a half inch male connection and then find the stop tap a few yards further from the canal in the sunken meter box.

This is a popular mooring but there are plenty of quiet spots away from the main crowd.

Fri. 25th May 2001.
This 53 K long pound is nirvana for the bumper boats. Out in force today.

The next 28Km from Argeliers to Colombiers are pleasant due to mostly much lower earth embankments alongside the canal thus opening up spectacular views towards the sea. After Colombiers the banks return even more enclosing than before.

Sat. 26th May 2001.
Arrived at the six lock staircase before Bezier and was surprised to be immediately taken down -solo. All fully power operated by a couple of very efficient Eclusiers. As we left the last lock the reason became obvious. About a dozen hire boats, mostly fresh out of Bezier this Saturday morning, queuing to go up.
Bezier we did not take to. No decent mooring space, unable to even take water, and I suppose what really made an impression on us was a stroppy character at the hire boat base who was rudely insistent that we should not have “His” water.
What all the guides do not tell you about Bezier is that there is a main line railway between the canal basin and the town. The tourist maps of the town omit the railway completely. The uphill walk to the town is along pedestrian unfriendly roads, not a place to think about carrying supplies back to the boat. Once in the town centre not bad. We had a good lunch near the Cathedral. Hot sunny day so nice position under the trees appreciated.
However quick to move on from the charmless basin and arrived at Villeneuve Les Beziers 6Km further on. Typical French small town. Charm and character and unusually a real attempt has been made to brighten up and use the canal side area.
Water is dispensed using 5Franc Jetons purchased from the nearby minimarket. One just filled our tank - bigger boats will require two or three.
Good Pizza restaurant on the canal bank. We fortunately booked and were surprised to find the place completely full and turning away customers - there are so few restaurants in this part of France. After our meal walked in to the town centre with the intention of having another drink at the café in the square but found everything firmly closed, dark and silent.
Party of carousing Germans moored nearby did not keep us awake too long. They are so annoying the way they do everything perfectly - even sing in tune when drunk.

Sun. 27th May 2001.
Moored near the Europarc (Closed) and walked about 2Km to Farinette Plage. This is Southend with sun. A long road of restaurants and souvenir shops leading to a very busy beach. Sand to burn the feet, but we had our little plodge in the Med and an ice cream.
On to Agde but found the moorings so uninviting that we decided we did not really want to “Do” another historic town. Through the round lock with three entrance gates down on to the River Herault.. Great fun watching a hire boat crewed by four middle aged men, trying to get out of the lock. A certain style of hireboat, rather like a Norfolk broads cruiser, has the steering position inside and close to the forward end of the boat. The inexperienced therefore tend to have no idea what the stern of the boat is doing. When drink has been taken and the operator can only manage full ahead or full astern this has spectacular results.
A few hundred metres further on same boat turned right and headed at full speed towards the weir - fortunately not decisively.

We fully expected some sort of check at the final lock of the Midi to ensure that we were fit and seaworthy before being allowed to proceed on to The Etang de Thau. Nothing!
So the last five Km past reed beds, marshes, moored fishing boats and dramatically on to the Etang. So much salt water quite daunting for a small narrow boat.
Marseillan is clearly visible 2Km to the North East, but we felt very proud of our navigation as we made our landfall between the lights on the Nouveau Basin.
We were extremely fortunate. Capitan du Port was on the jetty of the old port and guided us to a berth in a lovely position near the end of the jetty looking out over the Etang.

Mon. 28th May 2001.
Marseillan. We stayed here for two nights and so fitted in another welcome visit from Sister in Law, en route this time from UK to Provence.
A very popular port for cruisers and also the many yachts based here. The old town is about ten minutes walk away but even closer 50M from the harbour a large Champion Supermarket and filling station. Many restaurants clustered around the waterfront specialising in shellfish from the etang. The Hotel Chateau du Port is recommended both for accommodation and dining.
Housing development has started near the etang coast but still a call not to be missed.

Tues. 29th May 2001.
Crossed the etang to Sete, setting off at 10 am in perfect conditions, wind and chop picking up a little before arrival. It is essential to be in possession of a nautical chart before setting off on this 16 Km crossing. That contained in Navicarte, Canaux du Midi, scale1:50000 is adequate.
Skirt the Oyster beds, easily seen rows of cages, until the two tall chimneys can be clearly identified. Head straight for these until red and green lights(towers) at entrance to Basin des Eaux Blanches are picked up. After passing through this wide entrance I found some difficulty in identifying the actual entrance to the channel to Sete, not helped by the red navigation Buoy which turned out to be a divers marker.
We passed easily under the two lift bridges at the approach to Sete and after a little trip along the canal du Sete returned to the Port Fluvial St Clair in the Canal Lateral. This seemed to be full of long stay boats, but the very helpful lady in charge waved us in to an empty berth on a pontoon close to the \port Office. Cost here F100 per night.
A good mooring in as quiet and private a position as could be expected in a large popular town. However we later found out the one drawback. At all times of day but particularly in early morning, high powered flat bottomed working boats passed in and out to the oyster beds in the etang. No nonsense here about slowing down for moored craft and our little boat jumped around violently in the wakes.
Very interesting town. Fishing Port and commercial port, though the latter much reduced since my seagoing days. We walked to the top of Mont St Clair. A stiff climb up many steps in searing heat, but worth while for the spectacular view. (There is a bus service.)
In the evening chose one of the many seafood restaurants and finally pigged out on seafood for this trip. Perhaps should not have eaten those strange things that tasted like disinfectant.

Wed. 30th May 2001.
A good stay but pleased to end the buffeting and return to the etang and into the entrance of The Canal du Rhone a Sete.
After 4Km of semi derelict industry we arrived at 10.00hrs. before the lift bridge at Frontignan. Even our little boat could not get under this one so we moored up to wait until 13.00hrs when it opened.
The town turned out to be much larger and with more character than I had expected, several well laid out squares and many old streets. A good selection of shops. We would have been happy to spend a night here.
Promptly at One o clock the road bridge lifted. By this time there were about twenty boats waiting on our downstream side of the bridge, mostly the aptly named bumper boats.
The ensuing few minutes produced a most appalling display of bad manners and stupidity but at the same time hilarious spectacle.
Traffic coming downstream has right of way through the bridge. Nevertheless as the bridge lifted a large Connoisseur cruiser leapt up the field and sped through. This set of a general melee with all the bumper boats trying to get through at the same time, including one chap who seemed to be trying to go through sideways. A lone German Yachtsman coming downstream, asserting his right of way, actually made it through the bridge before becoming entangled in the ruckus. Two Dutch barges, obviously incensed because they had been waiting longer than anyone, hands on hooters now steamed straight through the centre. The Guardian of the bridge meanwhile leaning over his handrail, face completely expressionless, waited patiently, as I am sure he does three times every day.

Moored mid afternoon near Abbaye de Maguelonne. Limited space on new pontoon moorings. An area where an attempt is being made to develop some tourism. New car park, information centre, and a restaurant barge moored nearby. A new floating foot bridge, powered by two Yamaha outboard motors, gives access to the island. We had expected to be able to visit the Abbaye but a direct approach is not possible and one must walk a considerable distance around the island to arrive. We only made it as far as the beach. Popular with a small beach café - nudists to the East.
A toy tourist land train runs, free, but not when wanted.
The bridge closes at six pm.

Thurs. 31 May 2001.
Not a terribly exciting canal this. Wide. Not much traffic. No shade. Very few possible mooring places.
In many places the canal is just two banks passing through salt water on either side. By standing on the roof we could see across the reeds over the bordering etangs.

Arrived at the four way crossing of the River Lez and once more turned downstream towards the Sea and the fishing port of Palavas Les Flots. Passed the Port Fluvial and under the bridge marked Forbidden to River boats on into the fishing port. Much to the amusement of the fishermen unloading their boats, mending nets and doing whatever else fishermen do we cruised almost to the harbour entrance before returning upstream to the fluvial port.
A walk around town, took water and then proceeded back upstream across the junction with the canal and on up River Lez towards Port Ariane. An interesting backwater. All sorts of moored craft, a storks nest, a swimming pack of apparently wild dogs, until arriving at the 17th century oval lock we found it
closed for repairs.
Back down river and on towards the next four way crossing at Perols/Carnon.
Here we took a very enjoyable and extremely good value lunch from a small open air restaurant on the canal bank. Searing sunshine, pleased to shelter under their parasols.
Bridge headroom of 1.2M prevented even us from heading downstream to Carnon.

Onward to the crossing of River Vidourle. Too close a study of various navigational information might discourage one from heading down this river. In fact it is a safe and easy passage, though it is advisable to have a reasonable chart to hand. Once again navicarte justified its cost. Le Grau to Roi is one of our best memories of this trip. The mixture of seaside resort, boat harbour and working fishing port makes it irresistible. Many and various restaurants along the quayside with fish and seafood just about plucked from the boats unloading beneath the verandas.
Serious shortage of moorings. The floating finger pontoons are strictly no go and the few transit moorings are mostly taken by long term moorers. Several Hire boats moored on a rocky bank above the bascule bridge or on a sloping cobble stone bank at the river entrance. They surely took a severe pounding as fishing boats swept too and fro. We were fortunately able to fit in across the end of the visitors mooring pontoon. This is where those extra old fenders found floating during the course of the trip come in useful. Lines in all directions and we spent a safe and secure night - bounced around a little - we do chuckle at the fussy little complaints constantly aired around the English canals about passing boats not slowing to a tick over. In France Commerce does not slow down, locals do not slow down, hire boats do not slow down, transiting yachties do not slow down. Only English owners of private boats observe the niceties.

Fri. 1st June 2001.
Along the Canal Maritime to the fortified town of Aigues Mortes.
Read the guide books for a better description than I can give.
After lunch - Pizza again - France has fallen, moved on. Found the mooring here crowded and not particularly pleasant.
Moored for the night at Gallician. A little enclave of long term resident boaters. Absolute nothing of a village. Two bars and a small minimarket. We spent a quiet night on a pleasant bank a few hundred yards from the bridge.

Sat. 2nd June 2001.
And so to the end of our voyage at Saint Gilles. Extremely helpful young Capitan du port, found us a berth. Cost 210F for three nights. What used to be known as a Mediterranean moor. Fwd rope out to a buoy and stern to the quay - so absolutely comfortable and unaffected by any passing traffic. Not that there is much traffic here, having passed the entrance to The Petite Rhone this is a dead end leading only to Bellegarde and Beaucaire. There is a busy Crown Blue Line base at Saint Gilles and Connoisseur at Beaucaire.
Interesting town of character. Very good food at the extremely busy hotel Restaurant. We also liked the friendly family run one facing the moorings - pizzeria of course - except for the drains which tended to overflow around the outside tables - made us quite nostalgic for China.
We arranged to use the slipway, no charge, our Capitan sorted out train times for us and I booked a taxi to take us to the Railway Station at Nimes on Sunday.

This was another public holiday weekend and Nimes was en fete preparing for a bullfight that afternoon. The whole of the town centre seemed to have been converted into an open air restaurant complete with enthusiastic bands playing
The train route for a great deal of the journey to Marmande parallels our canal voyage and we were able to spot many sections of water which we remembered or where we had moored.

We were kindly met at Marmande and wisked away to Duras where we spent a very pleasant evening and comfortable night. Hotel de Duc - small rooms but well fitted. Much above average breakfast.
Monday morning back to the farm of Monsieur Le Maire at Fontet - which we found completely deserted. Eventually Grandad turned up with his daily supply of baguettes. The family were on holiday in the Pyrenees. However he was able to make a phone call to ascertain where the Land Rover keys were safely stored and all was well.
Grandad would not accept any payment, so I left what I thought appropriate on the kitchen table.

Being a public holiday there were no trucks on the roads. Our return journey to Saint Gilles was 310 miles, with only 35 miles not on Autoroute, so with an empty trailer we made good time. The route across the midi passes through dramatic country and in fact gave us a much better perspective of the Midi than we had from the canals. Us ditch crawlers don’t always see an area at its best.

Good slipway at Saint Gilles. Concrete said to extend 15M into the water. Steep, but much to the chagrin of one Crown Blue Line employee the Defender handled the exit easily, he was dying to pull us out with his big butch tractor with the oversize wheels.
There is no suitable side walks to handle boat ropes and we had to resort to driving the boat straight on to the trailer, not too easy due to the small current and a side wind.

A very good Aire de Repose to recommend for overnight stay. On the A6, Autoroute du Soleil, just north of Pont d’Ouche. Quiet parking area well away from road noise - with a fabulous view across the valley of the Canal du Bourgogne to Chateauneuf.

A few miles diversion on Wednesday morning near Auxerre to the Cave at Bailly which we had patronised last year when descending the Yonne. Stocked up with their most excellent Cremant de Bourgogne.

Once again did the same silly thing and took a minor exit from the Paris Peripherique instead of the A13 Exit and ended up in a maze of small roads around Porte D’Auteuil. Even in Paris Laissez Faire rules and no one took any notice, got annoyed or impatient as we stumbled around the cobbled streets, even having to reverse out of one which was obviously to narrow for us. Set on the right road by a group of road sweepers, most amused to see a boat trundling across the market they were cleaning up.

Thur. 7th June 2001.
Arrived home 07.30hrs.

Some figures -
Distance cruised.About 470Km.
Number of locks.168 Many of these were double, triple, or even up to flights of six, but counted as one.

Miles from Home to Fontet via Portsmouth/Cherbourg Ferry.640
Miles Fontet to Saint Gilles, with empty trailer.310
Miles Saint Gilles to Home via Le Havre/Portsmouth Ferry.680