Burgundy and Beyond.
Spring 2003.

From the Junction of the River Yonne at Migennes to the summit at Pouilly en Auxois, 400m above sea level, the waters we cruised will eventually find their way down the Seine and into the English Channel at Le Havre. After the summit comes the beautiful scenic descent towards the Saone. We have crossed the first watershed and the flow now is towards the Mediterranean. Many days later upriver along the Haute Saone and on to the Canal des Vosges, following the valley of the River Coney and rising to our next summit. A long 11Km pound on a hot, sunny public holiday with walkers, cyclists and fishermen from Epinal taking advantage of the rural scenery, in contrast to the deserted countryside previously travelled. Down the 14 automated locks in double quick time and after a visit to Epinal, onward, with the waters towards the North Sea - though we only travelled down the Moselle as far as Nancy.

This was a memorable trip. Contrasting waterways. Continuous sunshine for the first four weeks, although quite cold at first. In fact down to minus six on the third night, but we were completely comfortable with our over the top set up of Webasto Diesel fired hot air heating and Eberspacher diesel fired hot water system. This early in the season many of the water points were still shut off and we had some difficulty in getting supplies.

Very few other boats moving so that we were usually on our own even on the long accompanied flights of locks. On both the Burgundy and Vosges we had two eclusiers with us at most times, so very little delay. The first time we waited for a lock was at Toul. We did not know that there was a general strike of Government salaried staff - a “Manifestation” as we eventually learned from a couple of VNF maintenance workers. We retreated to a river bank mooring and returned next day.
The locks on the Moselle are 185M long, 12M wide, with a lift of 7M. Built to accommodate 3000 Tonne Push-tows. Even here the Eclusier in his control tower always saw us approaching, probably pre-warned. The lights would change, the gates open and it all happened just for our 23ft Sea Otter. No waiting, no delays.

We broke no records. Some days only travelled for a few hours, stopped to visit most of the nearby villages and undertook several memorable walks, to Flavigny (location for the film Chocolate), Chateauneuf, Gouffre des Dames which we had already done on our first transit of the Bourgogne. Bain les Bains - a track across the fields completely avoiding the busy road, Savoyeux, the Chateau at Ray sur Saone and many more.
A total distance cruised of 632Km and passed through 318 locks in exactly six weeks from launch to recovery.

Stayed put for a day in Dijon, wonderful weather, meals at pavement Cafes, vibrant town. St Jean de Losne where we arrived exactly on time for the annual exhibition “Salon Fluvial Paques Boat”. Dined both nights at The Amiral, well known by boaters. If you have a sense of humour its great!
Nancy. I have run out of superlatives - Stanislas Square is a must.
Toul, the fortified town, where we visited to make arrangements for homeward trip, then returned a few days later. Total of 3 nights in the lovely  Port de Plaisance on a floating pontoon mooring, with electricity and water. Cost - Nothing!

Moved to Connoisseur Cruisers for the last night, ready for haul out bright and early in the morning. Friendly and helpful people.

After many kilometres and locks, completely confident, be sure that a boat will always find some way to make a fool of you - especially in front of a good assembly of spectators.
“What do you think you are doing, you were showing off, don’t be so stupid” - She said.
“Why are you so slow. Why don’t you do what you are told” - He said.
“Don’t you shout at me, I’m not one of your ships Crew” - She said.    Etc.
Only time for a quick sulk by both parties before the next lock and back to normal relations.

On this occasion we used Brittany Ferries Portsmouth to Caen route. The journey by road was 301 miles from home to Migennes, 178 miles with the empty trailer from Migennes to Toul and 395 miles from Toul, via Paris to Home.

This trip was different as for the first time in France we were accompanied by our King Charles Cavalier Spaniel, Finch. So exhausted by all the walking and the excitement of visiting shops and cafes, that surprisingly he was very well behaved, no problem and a pleasure to have with us. King Charles’ are uncommon in France and so a constant centre of interest. A great way to meet people and practice my French. On the French Railways dogs are charged half fare, so for the journey from Toul to Migennes, via Paris, he became a “Small Animal in a Container” and at a cost of 5 Euros spent the whole journey in his towelling bag, sitting on my lap.
Now thinks he is a very superior dog, having travelled across Paris in a Taxi and chased the Pigeons in the Gare de Lyon.

Next trip - Brittany in Autumn. Ferry already booked.
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Since our last trip I have fitted a General Ecology, Nature Pure water filter with separate faucet. Very effective, we had palatable drinking water at all times.

Another change is the fitting of yet another new propeller. This time reduced to 7 inch pitch. This appears to be the correct pitch for our engine/boat combination. Engine will now rev to 3000rpm giving a good turn of speed. However at this speed almost immediately overheats. Maximum continuous engine speed is 2500 to 2600 rpm depending on conditions. The jacket water temperature gauge which I have also fitted allows me to monitor temperature and know exactly what is happening.

Since return home I have purchased new engine thermostat and also a Tropical tube stack for the engine heat exchanger - this has about double the number of smaller tubes giving larger heat exchange surface area. Eagerly await test on next trip. Seven years does seem rather long to be still dealing with teething troubles!
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A problem which must be faced by all visitors to France. British cards are not accepted in any automatic payment system.
This is rapidly becoming more of a problem as it becomes even more difficult to get any French worker to operate outside 9 to 5 Mon to Fri.
Our Banks must upgrade our cards as a matter of urgency!
Sun 6th. April.
Left home and towed to Portsmouth where we caught the 22.30 Brittany Ferries overnight to Caen.
Left additional time to check in, since this was our first time with Dog. However all that was involved was a check of the Implanted Chip to ensure that it tallied with the number on Pets 1 form.

Mon 7th April.Finch spent a comfortable night in the boat. Transferred back into the Land Rover before disembarking from the Ferry. Uneventful tow to Migennes by way of the Paris Peripherique. Arrived 14.00hrs.
Connoisseur moved a couple of their boats from the foot of the slipway and we launched and cruised about 200 yards to the quayside. Filled our three diesel cans at the nearby Supermarket and stocked up with Cremant de Bourgogne. Then took Land Rover and Trailer to Joe Parfitt’s boat yard half a mile away just the other side of the railway. He was away that afternoon so we parked up in the usual spot and returned to “High Jump”.
Monday, so the few restaurants in Migennes were closed. Eat on board and spent a night somewhat disturbed by the freight trains just the other side of the canal basin.

Tues 8th April.
Walked to Joe Parfitt’s yard. A chat and paid him for six weeks parking.
Set off - at last. No delay at the first lock just outside Migennes. Eclusier appeared from the house as soon as we arrived. A very nice mooring for lunch at Esnon, but an unatractive village straddling the main road.
On to St Florentin by mid afternoon and moored for the night. Short walk to this hilltop town. Unfortunately all shops closed on Tuesday, but good view from the Priory Terrace.
Nearby Restaurant with balcony over the River Armance - very seedy appearance and no customers. Unattractive menu. So eat at the Turkish operated Pizzeria Batman. Rather surprisingly , very good.

The new propeller 12 x 7inches appears to be the correct pitch, at last. Engine can be run up to 3000 rpm. However at 2600 rpm water temperature is 190 deg F. and if speed is increased, even a small amount above this the engine quickly overheats.

Wed 9th April.
Arrived Flogny-la-Chapelle 12.30, in time to buy bread. Took our lunch here then continued to Dannemoine. Walked around village and then on to an open space before Tonnerre.
Tightened engine water pump/alt. drive belt.
Met a couple of Americans on the tow path from a Hotel Barge moored in Tonnerre. They were full of praise for our troops fighting in Iraq.

Thurs 10th April.
Hotel Barge passed down, occupants still breakfasting.
Through one lock to Tonnerre. Shopping in town and walked up to the ruined Church of St Pierre to admire the view. Ruin is an exaggeration, but certainly in a derelict and unsafe condition. Back to the boat and decided to move away from the town to an open space for lunch. At 11.45 I headed the boat towards Tonnerre lock No 95, which had one lower gate open, while Peggy with Finch walked to the lock ready to assist with gates at one side. Just as I was about to enter the lock the gate started to swing shut. I could not see the eclusier on the bank and thinking that he had not seen our little boat gave a few blasts on the horn. However apparently the action was quite deliberate, the Eclusier did not want to risk being late for lunch. A considerable altercation between Bankside Crew and Eclusier, ensued, resulting in the gate being reopened by a very grumpy Eclusier and we were put through in double quick time (clear by 11.55)
This is the only time in our six week holiday that we experienced any negative attitude from VNF staff. Usually they were friendly, helpful, and even in the huge locks never gave the impression that our little boat was any less important than the biggest of barges.
Moved on to Tanlay here we took on water and strolled around the village and Chateau Grounds. Then to
Argentay. Moored half Km above lock. Walked around village but evening meal on board.

Fri. 11th April.
To Lezinnes for morning shopping and lunch aboard before moving on to Ancy le France.
Water point. About a mile walk to town centre. Large Chateau. Walked around outside. Like many, very bare grounds. Bare raked gravel. Very little sign of habitation.
Busy Main road through town spoils what would be attractive place.
On to Chassignelles and moored below lock.
Evening meal at “Hotel D’Ecluse 79” a very short walk from the boat. Well patronised and very good meal. A little on the expensive side but good value. Lovely position. Window table overlooking the canal.
Finch, our little dog is getting so much exercise walking with Peggy along the towpath between locks, that he is exhausted. Sleeps every spare moment and is absolutely no problem left alone on the boat in the evening.

Sat. 12th April.
To Ravieres for shopping. Lunch at bankside mooring. All the locks encountered so far are manned. Mostly one Eclusier to each, so no delays.
Stopped at Cry-sur-Armacon which the Canal Guide describes as one of the prettiest villages in the area. Difficult to know why. Very much like all the other deserted and closed down villages.
Stopped at Grande Forge de Buffon which appeared deserted and closed. By chance happened to try the door of the entrance building and found it unlocked and a couple of attendants inside waiting to take our money.
Well worth a visit. Now privately owned and maintained, sufficient of the original buildings with a couple of water wheels, bellows and trip hammers remain to give a realistic impression of a very early iron smelter.
Stopped for the night just after Buffon.

Sun 13th April.
To Montbard. Walk around town and to Church on top of the hill with panoramic view. Jumble/Bric a Brac sale in square. Many stalls. Some interesting old stuff but not tempted.
Moved across basin and moored to safety rail in order to take diesel cans to nearby Supermarket but found that pumps were in automatic mode requiring credit card operation. My English cards would not operate the system.
Moved on to Les Granges. Charming mooring on grassy bank down a lane away from road. Old cottages on other side of open grass space.
Sister in Law arrived, breaking her journey from England to The Var. She was staying the night at a Chateau a few Km away, where we were driven for Dinner. Very swish and lovely food.


Mon 14th April.
Up until now days had been bright sunshine but very cold. One night temperature was down to -6C.
Now continued bright and dry but warmer. Wonderful weather.
To Pont de Veneray. The public water point was dry - so forced to fill up at Locoboat Hire base, who charged Euros 3.25 for our usual 100L of water.
Walked around the village of Venarey but only one shop, a boulangerie which was closed. Crossed back over the canal and walked to Les Laumes for supplies. About a mile away. A large new Supermarket has been built since our last visit, otherwise a few small basic shops. Managed time for a beer at a small bar before returning to the boat for lunch.
After this point locks are accompanied. A travelling eclusier accompanies the convoy of boats up each flight.

When we arrived two large lorries were unloading piling sheets at the nearby wharf and we had talked to the VNF employee in attendance and arranged to start up the Pouillenay flight at 14.30.
Promptly our convoy of one set off. Accompanied by not one, but two eclusiers. Having two men in attendance no time was lost by having to empty each lock after use and leave bottom gates open. The rule on The Bourgogne which annoys so many boaters in a hurry.

The mooring at Pouillenay is rather spoiled at the moment by the large stockpile of steel sheet piles. Also unpleasant garbage strewn around. However picked the quietest most pleasant spot against a steep grass bank.

On Tuesday and Wednesday morning further lorries arrived with steel piling to add to the stockpile.
Along the entire length of the Northern half of the C. de Bourgogne enormous quantities of piling are being delivered. Admittedly this is not the most visually pleasing form of bank repair, but it does show a commitment to the future maintenance of the canal. There have been recurring rumours concerning the possible closure of this canal. What a tragedy that would be - but how do the economics work when day after day two Eclusiers happily accompany one little 23ft boat through flights of locks - all for our annual licence fee of  Euros 96.
When descending the Southern half of the canal we saw that much bank renovation had already been completed.

Tues 15th April.
Did not move today. Walked to Flavigny sur Ozerain about 6Km away - all uphill. Hot sunny day, and here we met a most unusual and uncharacteristic piece of surly unhelpfulness from the Shop/Tea room where we had arrived for refreshment. When asked for a drink of water for the little dog, the  Madame in charge refused, claiming that she did not have a dish.
This was the only instance of any sort of antagonism towards the dog which we met in our six weeks in France.
King Charles Spaniels appear to be uncommon in France and everywhere we went ours was the centre of attention. I got the opportunity to practice my French with many people each day who stopped to pet him and make comment. When we left him tied up outside shops there would be a stream of people patting him on the head and talking to him.
Flavigny was the town used as location for the making of the film Chocolate, but this seems to have had little lasting effect. A few more small art and antique shops but generally unchanged.
We had a beer in the one bar in town and walked back to the boat for a late lunch.
Later to the excellent new Boulangerie in Pouillenay, combined with general store.
Unfortunately the water tap at the moorings was not working and VNF staff were unable to turn it on. This is a “Commune” tap. We managed to eke out our supply.

Wed 16th April.
Accompanied by two Eclusiers up the 19 locks to Marigny le Cahout. They then helpfully escorted us through the next lock to the VNF maintenance yard, where we filled with water  and then back down this one lock to the very pleasant mooring opposite the village.
Nice little village with its streams and mysterious deserted Chateau. One Boulangerie/shop cum bar, with very limited stock. The other bar across the square is now closed and neglected.

Thurs 17th April.
Accompanied up through Locks 26 to 15 before lunch. Took water at Pont Royal. The former hire boat base now empty although the incumbent of the former Office building charged us Euros 2 for our 95L of water. (By his meter)
We moved on to St Thibault, a bankside mooring about a mile from the village. I had hoped to find a Restaurant here, but as we walked towards the outskirts of the village remembered that we had been here before and knew that this was a vain hope. However a little more life than last visit. The Depot du Pain, a small shop with a few basic provisions was open and showing unbelievable enterprise for a French village, the owner had placed two tables outside and had for sale Tea, coffee, soft drinks and ice Cream.
Evening meal on board. I walked to the village in the morning for bread and croissants.

Fri. 18th April. Good Friday.
To the end of the long reach and then non stop up the 12 electrified locks to Pouilly en Auxois. The same young lady Eclusier accompanied us. VNF have up rated her car since our last trip - we progressed upward at the same breathtaking rate and arrived in the summit basin just after 12.30.
Only the tunnel trip boat and one local boat on the berth, though later in the afternoon a hotel boat arrived from the South and catching us up from the North a strange wooden sailing craft from the English East Coast. Very trad!
The granary across the basin is very quiet at this time of year. On our side of the basin just across the nice area of grass and trees is a small bar restaurant (closed of course) a large builders merchant and my favourite shop, a Gamme Vert. I can happily spend hours browsing through Gamme Vert (for the uninitiated it is a chain of farm supplies/ country stores) and I always find something which I absolutely must buy.
Quite a long walk to the town centre. Very few shops but a good range of restaurants. We walked there in the afternoon and then returned in the evening for dinner at The Hotel du Commerce.
A good supermarket is situated about half way to the town centre which also has fuel pumps. So I made two trips with my diesel cans - lengthening my arms a few more mm.
Sat. 19th April.
At 09.30 presented ourselves at the VNF Office, where we assured the young lady that we had a tunnel light, lifejackets and a Bucket! We were then issued with our permit to proceed through the tunnel. Large dry brick lined tunnel. Absolutely straight  3,333 M. long.
At the first lock we had to wait about twenty minutes for the arrival of the English wooden boat. We then proceeded downward together.  We only did 8 locks and then moored up at Vandenesse en Auxois. They carried on, being in a hurry to get to Dijon where they intended to leave their boat, having a flight booked back to UK. Sure enough we next saw the very distinctive boat a few days later moored on a pontoon at Dijon.
Just past Vandenesse we moored to pins in the canal bank in a fantastic spot.
In Hugh McKnight’s Cruising French Waterways this exact spot is shown in the full page photograph opposite The Foreward. The small cabin cruiser is in our spot. (Having moored here twice we claim it as “Our Spot”)Dramatic view of Chateauneuf, which is floodlit later in the evening.
Charming little shop/café near the road bridge strangely situated in a sort of basement. Serving a cup of coffee involves the cheerful young lady in a marathon of stairs climbing to the adjacent Chambre d’hote. Various supplies including their own label Cremant de Bourgogne. Wish we had bought more, it turned out to be very good, and very reasonable price.
There is also a Restaurant nearby.
We walked back up the flight of locks and watched the tunnel trip boat for a while.
Evening meal on board.

Sun. 20th April. Easter Sunday.
In previous years Easter Sunday has been a holiday for The Eclusiers, but today everything was working as normal.
We passed down three locks and then moored and walked up the hill to Chateauneuf. A great deal of work going on restoring houses and a few more shops opened up. Looks set to become a major tourist attraction in a few years time, but at the moment charming. We walked through the village and onward for quite a distance on woodland paths. There is a well marked selection of walks radiating from here. Would be a good place to spend a day or two.
Badly shown up here by Dog who appeared to be asleep under the café table until a cat strolled past. No time for arguments about who was supposed to be holding him - suddenly we are racing down the centre of the main street, pursuing dog, who is pursuing cat. The leading pair disappeared into the very posh hotel near the Chateau entrance  and after a few seconds emerged again at high speed from reception, at which point Dogs lead became wedged under the entrance gate. Shamefacedly retreat back to our table to our coffee.
At 14.00 hrs continue through another 9 locks and moor at Pont d’Ouche. Hire base abandoned. No water. Village all closed up - nothing.
Mon 21st April.
Stopped at Bussiere sur Ouche to walk around the old monastery. Now seems to be some sort of conference centre, but very calm atmosphere. Large grassy grounds with lots of shady trees, streams and small lake. Small ancient village.
Difficulty finding water but eventually filled up at Lock 32 Gissey.
Moored for night just above the lock at Pont de Pany. Small village on a moderately busy road. Boulangerie and bar - and a beautiful restaurant. Housed in a fabulous looking Chateau in extensive well tended grounds. The menu displayed at the entrance looked most appealing. Of course it was CLOSED ON MONDAYS!!!!!

Tues. 22nd. April.
Yesterday evening we had noticed a gathering of VNF personnel and much activity around the lock. Whilst breakfasting the Eclusier came along to tell us that there was a problem with the lock gate. They were waiting for Divers and the lock could not be used meanwhile.
We walked to the village and bought Tick treatment for Finch at the Pharmacy. He had picked up quite a few in the last few days. In England this treatment is only available at Vets at great expense, but is freely sold at pharmacies in France.
Took a walk back along the towpath to Ste Marie sur Ouche, which would have been a pleasant little village except for the major pipe laying activities being carried out through the centre. Prompt at Noon all activity ceased and the workmen all trooped into the bar/restaurant where we were having a beer, for their lunch. The French workman must have his three course cooked lunch (with wine)
Back to the boat for our lunch. We were bathing Finch on the nearby picnic table from a bucket of hot soapy water when the Eclusier and his young son came along. The boy was absolutely fascinated by this procedure, then Father announced, quite offhand - You can go through the lock now. What mysterious event had occurred to make the lock now workable we never discovered.
A German Cruiser, “Linde”, had arrived and accompanied us to Velars sur Ouche.
We moored firstly near to the supermarket - ideal I could get diesel from their pumps. Unfortunately these were totally automatic, card operated and would not respond to my English card.
This mooring was not very pleasant. A couple of caravans just opposite where road contractors were living. This is also the extreme end of the Tarmac Cycle/Skateboard Raceway along the towpath from Dijon. Very well used at all times of day.
We moved down close to the next lock where there is a small Swiss Restaurant. Dinner ashore tonight.
Sorry, fully booked !!!

Wed. 23rd April.
Walked to “Gouffre des Dames” a huge figure of the Virgin set on top of a tower overlooking miles of Burgundy - at least she is, we poor mortals on the ground don’t get the benefit of the view due to the forest trees. A steep climb up forestry tracks. Said to be 2Km, but I am sure it is much more.
Joined Linde at 2pm and on to Dijon. Arrived 4.30 pm.
Plenty of space in Marina so selected a quiet berth.
Evening meal at pavement table at specialist Mussel Restaurant.


Thurs 24th April.
Hot day exploring Dijon.
At one point had to put little dog into a fountain to get a drink.
Poor little chap was totally exhausted at end of day and showed absolutely no sign of wanting to come out again in the evening. Settles happily on his seat in the boat.

Fri. 25th. April.
Dijon to St Jean de Losne. Set off 09.00hrs. Arrived 15.30hrs. but slight delay while I fetched the Eclusier from the nearby hostelry, which involved having a beer myself - to which I had no objection.
During the last few miles before St Jean de Losne I was having to use less and less engine speed to avoid overheating and before arrival was reduced down to 2000rpm. No discernable reason. With this in mind, thinking that we could be immobilised for a few days we entered the basin and found a berth on a Crown Blue Line Pontoon with electricity. Although being pretty full with their own hire boats, which were constantly being shuffled around, the staff were very helpful and made no objection to our stay.
We moored next to Narrow Boat Albert. I was delighted to meet this couple, I am a keen reader of his web site. These people really get around. (See my Links Page)
I removed and checked the engine thermostat with the aid of a kettle of boiling water. It seemed possibly a little reluctant to move.
Dinner at an outside table at L’Amiral. The most disorganised restaurant ever. Great if you have a good sense of humour. Rather windy, but we enjoyed ourselves. The house wine is excellent value.

Sat. 26th. April.
Albert left this morning.
Tried H2O for thermostat - they recommended talking to Ted Johnston.
Visited the Paques Boat Show. This was the first day of a two day show. Nothing like the shows we are used to in UK. Very small scale, little of interest. Met Ted Johnston of Marine Diesel who had a stand and enquired re thermostat for our engine. He is agent for Beta. No stock and unable to say when he would be able to supply.
Wet day.
Found that the water tap on our pontoon was not working. Moved across near office filled up, and returned. Managed to commence this manoeuvre to coincide with cloudburst.
Evening meal at L’Amiral. Inside this time. Very full with many exhibitors from the Boat Show.
Chaos!

Sun. 27th. April.
Departure St. Jean de Losne.
Filled with water and went to Crown Blue Line office to pay mooring fee, only to find Office closed and no manager around. We did not wish to leave without paying, CBL had been most helpful, so left what we thought was the correct money with an English Couple aboard a large fibreglass Cruiser.
Moved across the river to Losne. Managed to get alongside a very shallow mooring almost under the bridge. Two trips along the main road to filling station for 50L of Gasoil.
Made a complete arse of reversing off the mooring and walloped the edge of our accommodation against the anchor fluke of a moored barge. Another scar. Owner of the barge quickly appeared and critically examined his anchor, checking what damage we had inflicted!
Windy day. Very few official moorings on the river but we are usually able to find a bankside spot deep enough for us to at least get the bows in and tie up to trees. Found a pleasant field mooring for lunch.
Upstream on River Saone to Auxonne. We have now moved from Bourgogne to Franche Comte.
Pontoon moorings just upstream of the bridge but out of range of traffic noise. Pleasant quiet situation near to the ancient fortifications, but not too far from a large estate of multi story housing blocks.
Received a telephone call from Sister in Law telling us she would be arriving about Seven to take us to the Hotel where she was staying the night for Dinner. I took Finch for a walk around town while Peggy started to get ready to go out.
When I arrived back at the boat I found her very upset and angry.
Apparently having just emerged from the shower, all the curtains drawn on shore side so that the boat appeared deserted, she heard the noise of something striking the boat. Looking out saw a couple of teenagers on the bank throwing stones at the boat. They must have got a considerable shock when this tousled head popped out of a window and remonstrated with them. The girl of the party cheekily replied “Not understand English” at which the tousled head resorted to Old fashioned Anglo Saxon “But you understand -----------“
Rapid retreat of stone throwers.
When I returned to the boat the group of six teenagers were sitting on a bench about 50M away casting sideways glances at us. We obviously were concerned about laving the boat unattended that evening. So I returned ashore again and found the Gendarmerie, which was about a mile walk away on the outskirts of town. The Officer on duty was very polite , concerned and helpful. He told me that he was on patrol that evening and would keep an eye on our boat.
When Sister in Law arrived an hour later she noticed a brace of Gendarmes hovering in the parking area overlooking the moorings. Very impressive!!
By this time a couple of hire boats had joined us on the pontoons, so we felt more relaxed about leaving for Dinner.
(During the whole trip we saw most boats on the Rivers - Saone and Moselle, and very few on the canals.)
Mon.28th April.
Upstream from Auxonne the character of the Saone changes, becoming smaller and more pastoral. The navigation is reduced to Freycinet size.
Engine has settled down now to maximum 2600rpm at jacket water temperature 180 deg F. Any increase of speed results in overheating. Several times during the trip checked speed against Km posts and found that 2600rpm gives 8Km/Hr.
Called at Pontailler. Turned into a wet day. Stopped for the night at an excellent little wooden jetty near Km Post. 260. in the heart of woodland approached only by a dirt track. No facilities. Only room for one boat.
Tues 29th. April.
Comfortable night. A couple of Peniches went by around breakfast time but surprisingly a 280 Tonne barge makes very little wake. Not nearly as much as a small yacht being driven hard.
Intended to walk to the village of Broye, but still wet. Just took a walk with dog and then moved on.
To Montoche and then Gray where we arrived about lunch time. Nice enough but not quite up to the guide book glowing descriptions.

Wed. 30th April.
Walked to Arc-les-Gray, across the river bridge and about a mile to Lamugniere Park, where the guide book promised “ a delightful leafy park dating from the time of Napoleon III where you will discover waterfalls, caves, an orangery and a Chinese pavilion.” In fact a nice little park which is obviously being lovingly restored from years of neglect - but unfortunately the Guide Book writers imagination once again seems to have led him astray. EDB guides are great for the boating part, but best taken with a pinch of salt when it comes to the surrounding areas.
Back to the boat and moved across the river, through the automatic lock and moored at a rough old quay outside the VNF Office just upstream of the bridge. This was to allow me to walk back to the Supermarket at Arc-les-Gray with my diesel cans. Raining a little as I left so Peggy stayed on the boat and I donned full waterproof outfit. However after a couple of minutes walking, cloudburst. I persevered and when I returned to the boat found that I had parked just alongside a storm drain outlet. Waded back across the flooded quay, but we were lucky, the gushing drain was within inches of flooding the forward well of the boat. Hurriedly away. Stopped at Rigny for lunch on board by which time rain had stopped. At Savoyeux  the Eclusier did not seem to be expecting boats and appeared to be having a party in his control cabin. Through the Savoyeux tunnel (unusual to find a tunnel on a river navigation albeit on a cut.
Moored for the night on the bank almost opposite Port de Savoyeux.

Thurs. 1st May.
Public Holiday, locks closed.
Walked to village of Seveux and then in opposite direction to Savoyeux. The latter has in the not to distant past been the centre of some large industrial enterprise. Huge buildings now empty and mouldering but no clue as to what the industry was. Many empty houses. A very few being renovated, but in general, desolation.
Took water at the hire base and then moved to Ray sur Saone. Avoided the stop lock in the diversion of the Saone by travelling along the loop of the river. Ray sur Saone is up another loop. Good wooden mooring berths, about five, but as these filled up we retreated to the bank of the grassy public field about 100M downstream.
Two Restaurants, but the resident dragon at Chez Madame Yvette gets all the business by the simple expedient of grabbing everyone as they come of the boat and making sure that they make a reservation before finding the alternative venue. However food was good - Bison is the speciality in various forms. I had Bison steak and found it tasty and tender.
Nice walk up the hill to Chateau set high on an escarpment. Entry to grounds permitted. (Forbidden to walk on lawns or peer through the Chateau windows.) Good views back across the river.

Fri. 2nd May.
Woke up to find river level down considerably overnight and heavily aground. Eased afloat with pole and engine.
Another walk around Chateau grounds before leaving. Collected bread from Restaurant (ordered last night) No shops in this village now.
Soing. Village at PK332. About a mile above the village found a slightly ramshackle wooden jetty. Walked along track to village. On outskirts of village is a sports field and in one corner a scale model, in steel girders, rusty, of The Eiffel Tower!!! About 40ft high or more.
What on earth makes an insignificant little village like this build an expensive scale model of the Eiffel Tower?
Couple of shops, closed. Camp site near river, closed, with a bar where we took a drink. One of those very French, very sensible arrangements, the children from the local Junior School were having lunch in the bar Restaurant. Then lined up in crocodile and walked back to the school.
Up a 6Km branch of the river to Traves. There is some sort of development going on here, maybe will be a water park one day, though seems stalled at the moment. No other boats. We tied up at a very convenient mooring, an old construction barge. Not sure if it was meant to be an official mooring or not.
Picturesque village. Boulangerie, Bar and fascinating village shop hidden along a back alley with absolutely no indication that it is there. We did not find it until our second trip ashore in the morning.

Sat. 3rd. May.
V hot again.
Up another backwater to Scey-sur-Saone for shopping, just in time before Supermarket closed, and lunch at mooring. Large caravan/camp site along bank of river but not open yet. On to Port-sur-Saone. Water from hire base. Moored amongst several varied boats near town centre and walked around town - which did not take very long. Two cans of diesel from Garage in main street, and on our way.
Conflandey - jetty appears to be in Restaurant Grounds. Did not like the rather scruffy restaurant or the surly proprietor. Walked around village. No shops. No interest, and decided to move on. Isolated mooring

Sun. 4th May.
Took Finch for his walk along the bank before breakfast as usual - although at moorings like this he is completely free to run around, that is not the same. He insists on being taken for his walk - makes his requirements very obvious. Anyway, after return he started whining and crying and we realised that his paws had been badly stung by nettles. We had some anti histamine spray. Lots of nursing and comforting until he fell asleep and we were able to move off.
Port d,Atelier has a Boulangerie. Closed.
Bauley, like most of the villages in this area set about half a mile away from the River. Here we were fortunate enough to find a Boulangerie open - Sold out of Bread. Had a drink at the local bar and returned to boat to lunch off our reserves. An Italian group on a hire boat had moored up while we were in the village, this was the turning point for their weeks hire. Completely for no reason gave us a bottle of wine from their home town. Lovely gesture.
On another 11Km and through one lock (Locks in this area are automatic. Twist a hanging pole on approach and then lift the blue rod when inside.) to Centrecourt. Sprawling village with several streets but no “Commerce” On a grass common just outside the village we came across preparations for the St Jean Bonfire. A complete barn was being built with rough offcuts off timber, complete with mock millwheel which rotated easily on bearings, roof and chimney pot. Interior stuffed with timber offcuts. Fantastic amount of trouble and detail for a small village bonfire.
Nothing at Ormoy. Moored soon after at field bankside.

Mon. 5th. May.
Entered Canal des Vosges, formerly known as Canal de l’Est, at Corre. At the first lock issued with small black control box - radar zapper, for remote operation of locks.
Moored for a while at the small port and took water. Town all closed, this being Monday, but found one Boulangerie open and also carried two cans of diesel from the garage not very far away in main street.
Continued to Fontenoy le Chateau.
The quayside is mostly taken up with a hire base and a few local boats so we moved a little way up the canal to spend the night.

Tues 6th may.
Early morning walk into town with Finch for croissants, then after breakfast moved the boat back to the hire base  for water.
The river Coney runs between canal and town. Market day in Fontenoy - two stalls. The ruins of the Chateau approached up a steep rough path from the centre of town, give a good view back across the town.
Through seven locks to Pont du Coney. A good mooring not far from an excellent Italian Restaurant run by a charming lady, while we were there assisted by her Daughter who had just completed her course at the Sorbonne.
Before that however, in the afternoon a walk to Bain-les-Bains. About 30 mins. walk without need to go on the busy road. A good field track leads in a perfectly straight line form Pont du Coney to the outskirts of the town. At first on ordinary sort of town, but progressing down the hill we entered a time warp. An operating spa town, bath house, parks, hotels, just as it would have been between the wars.

Wed. 7th May.
Accompanied by two Eclusiers through locks 28 to 16. (09.00 - 12.30hrs.) Not a very nice mooring, tried the non towpath side but swampy and overgrown. The village of Melomenil consists of a few Farms and cottages. Walked the quiet country road over the hill to Uzemain. Rambling village with a small shop/bar. The Boulangerie did not reopen until 4pm.

Thurs. 8th.May.
National holiday but canals working as normal.
We had been told to be ready at 10am. Another boat would be coming up the flight and we would be continuing together. About quarter to ten a Swedish Yacht came up through lock 16 and accompanied by two Eclusiers we continued together to the summit level.
The “Bief de partage” is 11 Km long but lacking attractive moorings. Met a Freycinet cargo peniche at Chaumousey.
Towpath is part of a popular circular walk from Epinal to the Bouzey reservoirs. Very well used today including many families.
Just after Pont des Forges the canal broadens out into an attractive large lagoon. Probably a lay by for barges in former years. Several fishermen on the bank and a party of teenagers lounging under the trees nearby our chosen mooring. In Britain such an assembly would worry us, but the youth of France seems to be much more mature than ours. A couple came across to chat and at about six they all disappeared off homewards, leaving no litter or damage.
In the afternoon We had no hesitation in leaving the boat and walked into the village where we found a massive bric a brac sale centred around the school but spreading into all the nearby streets. Some professional stalls but hundreds of amateurs with motley assortments of treasures or junk (according to your point of view) spread out on the ground.
In the evening we ate at a Pizzeria overlooking the canal near the bridge, run by an enthusiastic young couple. Very pleasant.

Fri. 9th May.
Down flight of 14 locks. Automatic. Very fast. Up the branch canal,3.3Km to the Port de Plaisance at Epinal. Several vacant berths even though tents etc are being set up for a Festival Fluvial tomorrow.
Schoolchildren having survival lessons in the water on opposite bank - must be clean (hopefully) (the water that is, not the children)
Nice park like mooring between canal and river.
In town the “Banks of The Moselle” were decorated with flags and not flowers as much publicised. We also failed to see the Images of Epinal, caught in a heavy rainstorm as we walked towards the museum, so we still don’t know what they are or why they are famous. What terrible tourists we are!
Dinner in the Capitanerie Restaurant just a few yards from the boat.

Sat 10th May.
Down the branch canal to lock 15 where we were due at 9am. Found the same Swedish Yacht already waiting. Proceeded together, accompanied by an Eclusier to Charmes.
The Elderly Swedish couple had brought their boat from the med. And were in a hurry to get to Amsterdam. They seemed exhausted by the strain of bringing the heavy unwieldy boat through so many locks. Also had a leak somewhere in the engine cooling system. After every lock Sven (or whatever) had to clamber down from his flying bridge, down into the engine room, and then we would see buckets full of water being thrown from the door, before he emerged and clambered laboriously back to his lofty perch. Here he was almost beheaded by every bridge. Steering through every obstacle was in a kneeling position, by guesswork.
The canal is now following the valley of the Moselle.
Arrived at Charmes mid afternoon to find the Canal side area full of camper vans - or Motor Homes. Most of these were far removed from the concept of “Camping” Huge and luxurious. Many German registered.
There is a huge monument on the hill behind the town. Not mentioned in any of our canal guides. We tried to walk to it, but must be further away than we thought. Eventually, just like the old joke, we were told by a farmer stacking wood, that to get to the monument we should not be starting from here at all!



Sun. 11th May.
The Swedish couple were having a rest day (They next caught us up in Toul) We continued on our own, still accompanied by a travelling Eclusier.
Too late noticing a couple of unattended fishing rods in a garden. Suddenly one is following me along the cut. Owner and Wife rushed out - very nice and understanding - we recovered everything except the hook and a short length of line.
To Richardmenil. Good mooring not far from the village.

Mon 12th. May
After walking to Richardmenil, which of course was closed because today is Monday and France closes on Mondays, then took a walk around the reservoir, over the road bridge across the Moselle, to the village of Mereville. Good view from the Churchyard back across the valley, but best of all a very upmarket hotel which was happy to serve coffee and biscuits in the garden. Very enjoyable on a lovely sunny morning.
Set off at 13.00hrs and passed the last two locks of the Canal des Vosges.
From the last lock we entered the huge basin of Neuves-Maisons, the head of navigation for 1,500Tonne Euro size barges. Unfortunately no longer a scene of bustling activity, the basin was completely empty of boats, windswept and desolate. The surrounding quays holding only a few piles of scrap steel and on the North bank the semi demolished remains of the steelworks. So to our first Moselle Lock. 185M long, 12M wide, with a drop of 7.1M. and operated without delay just for us, in our 7M long boat.
The first few Km are austere and unwelcoming as we pass along the new cut, but at Maron we rejoin the river. Had planned to stop at Maron but the mooring turned out to be just a small wooden jetty, already occupied by a Dutch Barge.
Very few official moorings and bankside spots not easy to find.
Passed three locks and found an excellent jetty outside the Restaurant Beau Rivage opposite the village of Pierre La Treiche. Very happy to use the Restaurant that evening.
Good track leading along river bank, excellent for dog walking through open scrubland.

Wed. 14th May.
No problem with locks today. In through entrance lock of the Marne au Rhin and a quick stop at the Connoisseur base to make enquiries about using their slipway next week. English chap thought it would be OK but the boss was away that day so he could not give a definite yes. On up past two more locks and one lift bridge, all manned, through the breach in Vauban's fortifications and in to the charming Port de Plaisance. Plenty of space. Picked ourselves a nice outside pontoon so that we were looking out over the canal. Green open space nearby under the ramparts for dog walking.
Filling station short distance up the road for diesel.
Spent some time locating a vet and making arrangement for the Tick and worm treatment needed before Finch could return to UK. This must be carefully  planned because treatment must be given between 24 and 48 hours of embarking on ferry. No leeway is allowed. Also record of treatment must be made on official French Government form from a numbered pad.
We were fortunate to find a Vet who spoke good English and understood the requirement, although he had never before been asked to do it. He immediately telephoned Paris and arranged for a supply of official forms to be sent.
This exercise actually resulted in me entering a Cyber Café for the first time, where I was able to look up the Min of Ag and Fish - or whatever their successors are now called, and download the details of requirement and instructions to  Vets.

Thurs 15th. May.
After a walk into the town for shopping and second breakfast at a Salon de Tea in the round square, set sail again. Moved off into the canal at ten o clock, badly judged as a loaded Peniche was just locking down into our pound, so we had to wait while he proceeded through “Our” Lock. Then closely followed by a second, so we probably lost about an hour.
No problem, we still arrived at the P de P in the St George basin, Nancy at 5.30. Time for a walk around town. We were thrilled by Nancy - the architecture is stunning. Particularly Stanislas Square with its decorative wrought iron gates and facades.
Wonderful park. (did not like the little zoo much)


Fri. 16th. May.
All day in Nancy. Exhausting - feet aching.
Took the little train ride around town. Very good commentary. A little knowledge added to our enjoyment of the town.
Very hot day - kindly waitresses always made sure that Finch had a drink. As always King Charles received lots of attention. He was more than happy to go to sleep on his seat when we went off in the evening for a meal at a pavement café.

Sat. 17th May.
Headed back to the centre of town for a walk around the streets of the old area. Found a market of Antiques/Junk spread along several streets. Resisted temptation - did make an offer on an ancient handle operated water pump which fortunately was refused, so I was saved the labour of carrying it back to the boat. Bought a few provisions and back to the boat. Set off down the canal at 11.00hrs.
Back up the Moselle towards Toul. Stopped for the night at Liverdun. A good jetty completely concealed from the river navigation up a dead end branch, probably a section of the Marne au Rhin abandoned when the Moselle was made navigable.
From the river and when walking along the streets adjoining the river, Liverdun appears a dismal place, with derelict industrial buildings and scruffy shops and houses which have seen better times. However climb the steep steps and find the ancient village, a different perspective opens up. Interesting little place. A huge amount being spent on restoring the Chateau.
Near to the mooring in a park like area is a slipway - nothing restricting use. Looks reasonable, I think we could launch there. Certainly good enough for a Wilderness - and I am sure it would be easy to find parking in the village. For example, I saw a large motor repair shop with very underused buildings.

Sun. 18th. May.
Returned to Toul.
After entering the first automatic lock on to the Marne au Rhin stopped at the Connoisseur base to make arrangements for using their slipway on Wednesday morning, so when we entered the second lock we had upset the automatic system by taking to long, and had to use the call system to summon the Eclusier. Met a loaded Peniche just before the PdeP.
Back to the same mooring. Water, Electricity - still no sign of any call for payment.
Bought train tickets ready for tomorrow. Necessary to go via Paris in order to arrive in Migennes early afternoon. Station is only 10 mins. walk from P de P.

Mon. 19th. May.
Up early, walk dog, get ready, and caught train at 08.00.
On SNCF dogs are charged a half fare. Our King Charles therefore became a “Small animal in a container” and at a cost of 5 Euros spent the journey in his towelling bag sitting on my lap.
Both trains on time to the minute, clean and comfortable.
At Gare de L’Est. first taxi would not take us with dog. So back into his bag and carried, second taxi hesitated but accepted us.
Time for a sandwich at Gare de Lyon. Arrived Migennes about 13.30hrs.
Land Rover and Trailer all safe at Joe Parfitt’s. The brambles had started to grow around the trailer.
On the journey back to Toul searched unsuccessfully for somewhere to eat, making a couple of detours. At lunch time would probably have been no problem, but in the evening (especially Monday) everything closed.
Had a very nice Pizza at the Pizzeria la Spezia, overlooking the river on the outskirts of Toul.
Parked LR and Trailer just across the basin in front of VNF Office.

Tues. 20th May.
Problem with Finch’s treatment. Due to postal strikes the forms had not arrived from Paris. After our Vet had conferred with Paris and a friend in Caen he used a photocopy of a faxed form.
Took the LR and trailer to park in Connoisseur’s yard.
Moved boat to Connoisseur in afternoon and made preparations for journey - loading up LR. Etc.

Wed. 21st. May.
Recovered boat on to trailer and left Toul 09.00hrs.
The N4 is a major East/West route. Look at a map of France and motorways mostly run North/South. Dead straight with a bend about every 20Km. And occasionally thundering through a shuttered and uninhabitable hamlet at a crossroads in a dip. About 50/50 duel carriageway and suicide inducing single. In the LR with 3.5 Tonnes of boat I  am probably far less stressed than the car driver - my cruising speed is the same as the nose to tail 44 Tonners and performance on hills much the same. Once again I found only courtesy and help from the commercial drivers.
On the outskirts of Paris we stopped at a service area. Immediately approached by Middle Eastern Women closely watched by their dodgy looking men folk, aggressively demanding that we buy gold rings from them. This was an area where we really felt threatened, and were afraid even to leave LR unattended while we took a cup of coffee. Indeed it is true. There are two France’s. Town and Country.
Made a complete arse of Paris. Managed not only to go wrong joining the Peripherique, but also leaving it.
Arrived in Oustreheim in good time to get a meal before checking in for the ferry.
Most blessed relief of the day. The Vets certificate on a photocopied form was accepted - with pointed instructions to make sure we had an original next time.

Thurs. 22nd may.
I am sure Finch slept well on the boat tucked up in the hold of the Ferry. He was still bleary eyed and not quite awake as we disembarked at Portsmouth at 6 A.M. and managed another hours sleep before we arrived home.