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In the late Nineteenth Century the Mediterranean coast was becoming popular with wealthy North European travellers in search of sunshine and comfortable living. Brits in particular have been coming to Provence and The Cote d’Azur since the Victorian era. Queen Victoria herself was a regular visitor to Menton. (Her statue can be seen there as an acknowledgement.) The Promenade des Anglais in Nice was named around that time because it was the favourite place for the English to take their afternoon stroll - see and be seen.
Probably many of these visitors welcomed the opportunity, after the excesses of high society, to take the cure in a Spa Town situated high in the mountains, so the Train des Pignes was assured of custom.
Every Coastal town had ambitions to build its own railway into the hinterland, but the only one of the numerous projects to actually get off the drawing board, to be completed and survive today, was the Line from Nice to Digne Les Bains in Alpes-Maritime.
This line was built from 1890 to 1912 and is 150Km long, with 16 viaducts, 17 bridges and 25 tunnels, one of them 3Km long. At times the line climbs to well over 1000M altitude. Passing through spectacular mountain terrain for almost its entire length the line is a major tourist attraction, but is also used year round as a local service.
We decided to take advantage of our couple of weeks stay in Provence to visit the line. Officialy known as Chemins de Fer de Provence, information including timetable can be found at
http://www.trainprovence.com
We had to travel from St Antonin du Var and so decided that we would only be able to travel the section from Annot to Dignes-les-Baines. Made an early start, but definitely did not make sufficient allowance for the tortuous, steep, mountain roads of the area, which fortunately were remarkably free of traffic. Arrived at the station at Annot just five minutes before departure time of 10.42.
This is not a shoestring preservation operation. A nice warm waiting room and ticket office with stationmaster in attendance. Ticketing is fully computerised. Our return ticket Annot/Dignes cost 27Euros for two over 55s plus 4.50Euros for a small dog.
The station buffet looked very run down and unatractive, but the track is obviously well maintained and in good condition. Signalling is modern all electric. I would guess that the track is Metre Gauge.
Exactly on time the “Train” arrived. A single, double ended railcar. Diesel powered. Comfortable seats. Toilet compartment. Crewed by driver and young lady ticket inspector.
The car was about a third full, so we were able to get seats near the back with excellent view. Driver wasted no time and did not spare the horses in keeping exactly on schedule.
A very shaky, rattling progress. I could see the gauges on the (at that time) rear driving position - just managed 70Km/Hr on downhill stretches.
The first couple of Kilometres past fields and farmland, but after the halt of Le Fugeret started climbing seriously. The line twice curved completely around on itself so that at one point looking out of the side window, two lengths of track just travelled could be seen lower down the hill. Into a 3Km long tunnel, climbing all the time. Gradients are in places very steep for a railway, but track is conventional, no racks or similar are used.
Initially the route swings away to the north
There are 14 halts between Annot and Digne where the train stops on demand. Boarding passengers simply wave down the approaching train. At these unmanned halts the old station buildings are derelict. Only a couple of the stations seem to be manned. These are the places with dual track sections where approaching trains can wait and pass.
Many good walks start from the rural halts. Chemin de Fer de Provence produce a guide with many ideas for walks, but you will need the relevant large-scale maps in addition.
After the loop along the valleys of the Vaire and Verdon the line runs for some time close to the N85, Route Napoleon. Traffic is light. Sometimes racing the train along the straight sections, and then two or three cars waiting at one of the many automatic half barrier level crossings. Snow covered mountains can be seen both to North and South.
Arrival time at Digne 12.16hrs precisely.
The terminus at Digne is 15 minutes walk from the town centre. A good selection of restaurants and time for a good lunch before departure for the return run at 14.41hrs. Unfortunately not time for both a French lunch and exploration. We saw a sign to “The old town”, but the area, which we saw, appeared quite modern.
Shake, rattle and roll back to Annot , again absolutely on time at 15.52hrs.
A most interesting day, and recommended even to those not mad keen on railways. The scenery will make the trip worthwhile.